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Destination: San Francisco

Pacific coast route a gem of a drive

By JIM FOX, FREELANCE WRITER
This trip along California's Highway 1 -- or the Pacific Coast Highway -- puts drivers to the test with its hairpin twists and turns along mountain ridges south to Morro Bay. (Comstock Complete)

This trip along California's Highway 1 -- or the Pacific Coast Highway -- puts drivers to the test with its hairpin twists and turns along mountain ridges south to Morro Bay. (Comstock Complete)

A "one-tank trip" that's among the world's most scenic drives, where mountains plunge almost vertically into the Pacific Ocean, can be found south of San Francisco.

This trip along California's Highway 1 -- or the Pacific Coast Highway -- puts drivers to the test with its hairpin twists and turns along mountain ridges south to Morro Bay.

The dramatic encounter between land and sea repeats itself throughout the 398-kilometre route.

Along the Golden State's famous route, ocean waves crash against rocky shorelines and wind-swept beaches are inhabited by surfers, perky sea lions and otters.

It traverses forests rising from cool mountains, step-back-in-time towns, artist colonies, mining camps, historic missions and magnificent mansions.

Our land-sea journey began conveniently in San Francisco where Highway 1 crosses the Golden Gate Bridge.

Staying atop Nob Hill at the impressive Fairmont San Francisco, marking its centennial year, was opportune.

That's because local expert Tom Wolfe prepares Highway 1 tourists with assistance. There's also a Hertz car rental counter right inside the Fairmont.

A celebrity at Fairmont, Wolfe was America's first concierge in the 1970s, providing personal assistance to guests.

Heading south, surfers and hang gliders soon appear with plenty of spots to pull over as the views are spectacular, Wolfe said.

At Monterey, there's the famous fisherman's wharf and aquarium, while artists populate Carmel-by-the-Sea, where the state beach stretches 1.6 kilometres with pelicans and kingfishers aplenty.

Nature lovers can find 250 species of birds and mammals at Point Lobos State Reserve south of Carmel, an undersea ecological reserve, tide pools, coves, kelp forests and cypress.

Winding south to Big Sur, the Santa Lucia Mountains touch the sea and giant redwood trees climb to the sky while expansive houses perch on granite cliffs and wooded hillsides.

Great photo opportunities lie ahead at Bixby Creek Bridge, a concrete arch 80 metres high and 215 metres long, and at the 1889 Point Sur Light Station.

Clinging to the coast, pull in for lunch at the Ragged Point Inn set high on a cliff while nearby is the Piedras Blancas Light Station, said to be named by explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo for the bird-dropping stains on the white rock outcropping.

A sensual highlight is viewing -- and smelling -- the thousands of elephant seals that take over the beach at San Simeon near newspaper mogul William Randolph Hearst's 165-room castle, where tours are big business.

The Cambria arts community lies ahead where honorary mayor Sally Seago creates paintings bursting with colour and drama at Gallery by the Sea.

Next is Cayucos, reminiscent of its schooner days, with a huge fishing pier that's great for watching sea life on Estero Bay.

This trip ends at the Morro Rock, a gigantic volcanic remnant set in Morro Bay that's connected by a sandbar where there are frolicking sea otters, peregrine falcons and great blue herons.

Local resident Sara Loven says not to miss Montana de Oro State Park for "the most breathtaking waves and cliffs on the Central Coast."

Start at Spooner's Museum and hike the five-kilometre coastal trail to see "native plants, birds and huge crashing waves curling into rocks that look like outstretched hands," she adds.

A refuge after a day of driving is the waterfront Embarcadero Inn, a nautical setting with spacious rooms with balconies overlooking the "rock."

Inn staff can arrange ecological tours, birdwatching, surfing and kayaking excursions.

A fitting end to a perfect day is watching the sun set into the Pacific Ocean from the fine-dining Orchid Restaurant at the Inn at Morro Bay, a coastal hideaway resort located inside the state park.

Executive chef Robert Root blends California style with Mediterranean-inspired cuisine using regional organic products and seafood, including Ocean Rose Farm abalone gourmet shellfish.

From Morro Bay, it's a short drive to explore the Paso Robles and Edna Valley wine regions before returning to San Francisco or heading home from the Central Valley.

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IF YOU GO

- To plan a California one-tank trip: www.visitcalifornia.com; 1-800-862-2543. The California Travel and Tourism Commission's driving guidebook has detailed maps and routes (www. bestofcaliforniadrives.com).

- The Fairmont San Francisco has a bed-and-breakfast package available year-round from $299 US nightly. 1-800-257-7544; www.fairmont.com

- Embarcadero Inn at Morro Bay charges US$110 to $175 a night and has a family suite for $350. Breakfast is included and each room has a refrigerator, coffee maker and video player with free movies. 1-888-223-5777; www.embarcaderoinn.com

- The Orchid Restaurant at the Inn at Morro Bay offers an "early dinner special" (Sunday to Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.) with a three-course meal for $24. www.innatmorrobay.com; 1-800-321-9566.

This story was posted on Thu, January 24, 2008



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