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Destination: VANCOUVER

Riding through the Rockies

By KATHLEEN ROBINSON, SUN MEDIA


VANCOUVER -- My son and I got run out of town on a rail.

Lucky for us, the experience was pure luxury, with a dining car serving gourmet meals, spectacular service and glass-topped cars opening onto breath-taking views.

Too many of us who live close to the Rockies take the mountains for granted. But the Rocky Mountaineer journey -- through remote, pristine landscapes -- could make even the most jaded of us appreciate a beauty that mesmerizes people from all over the world.

Canadians were actually a minority on the journey Jake, 10, and I took along the Kicking Horse Route from Vancouver to Banff.

Australians were in abundance, with strong representation also from the U.S., England and New Zealand.

Jake and I flew from Calgary to Vancouver and passed a very pleasant day enjoying the hospitality of The Fairmont Waterfront.


Jake gave both the indoor and outdoor pools top marks.

Early the next morning we arrived at the Rocky Mountaineer Station, a large open terminal where an excited crowd checked in. T

The adults toasted departure time with champagne and orange juice as the children were assembled to join the staff in shouting "all aboard."

RedLeaf customers boarded coaches with large picture windows, in-your-seat meal service, loads of legroom and assigned, reclining seats that could rotate to a accommodate groups of four.

Jake and I joined other Goldleaf travellers in the custom-designed, two-level domed coaches.

On the bottom level of each Goldleaf coach is a dining room that seats 36 people, complete with large picture windows so we didn't miss any of the scenery as we enjoyed gourmet a la carte breakfasts and lunches.

But the really amazing views were up the spiral staircase, where windows run not only the length of the car, but also circle up to form most of the ceiling for truly panoramic views.

It is a remarkable experience to recline in your seat as the train begins to travel through valleys close to Banff.

You look straight up at tree-lined mountains towering over you and the scope and majesty of the Rockies is overwhelming.

Onboard attendants provided friendly and attentive service, as well as entertaining commentary on the sights.

Frequently, Jake and I would scurry out to one of the vestibules between train cars to hear the clackety-clack of the wheels on the rails and the bracing wind in our faces.

It also gave us a chance to get photographs of some trip highlights, such as the site of the Last Spike in Craigellachie or the Spiral Tunnels, without any window glare.

By suppertime the first day, the train had arrived in Kamloops, B.C., where we had the choice of seeing either the Two River Junction Revue -- based on the escapades of the notorious train robber, Billy Miner -- or The Great Canadian Lumberjack show -- a comedy about two competing lumberjacks.

This year the Rocky Mountaineer season begins April 17 and goes until Oct. 16, with 144 departures travelling both eastbound and westbound along routes through B.C. and Alberta.

Prices for GoldLeaf Service begin at $1,159 and RedLeaf Service starts at $559, both based on double occupancy.

There are also bonus credits for 2008 vacations booked before April 18.

Other trips range from the Whistler Mountaineer -- a daily three-hour trip from North Vancouver to Whistler, B.C. -- right up to 16-day journeys coast-to-coast.

You can also add driving vacations, cruises, city highlights or secluded retreats.

For more information, visit www.rockymountaineer.com

This story was posted on Fri, March 14, 2008



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