Sailing into Lark Harbour. -- Photos by Anita Draycott.

My cruising friends swear I'm wrong. Try it, you'll like it, they cajole. But seven meals a day, midnight chocoholic buffets, floating discos and hordes of passengers on a mega multi-deck ship with several elevators are just not my idea of good times at sea.

I want to feel the wind rustle my hair. I want to climb the rigging, haul in the sheets, fraternize with the crew, meet the locals, learn how to read the wind.

The folks who run Canadian Sailing Expeditions must have read my mind. My husband Bill and I have just stepped aboard the Europa, a 56-metre-long tall ship moored in Cornerbrook, Nfld. The three-masted Dutch barque would be our home for the next week as we plied the west coast though glacier-scoured fjords and friendly fishing ports as far as Norris Point in Gros Morne National Park.

The aroma of bread baking in the galley below, the father and son duet playing fiddle and accordion reels, the gleaming panelling and brass fixtures made a welcome-aboard first impression. The 27 sails and nine miles of rope (I mean sheets) were a bit intimidating to someone who has only sailed a Laser.

But when Captain Klaas Gaastra introduced his capable, mostly Dutch crew of 14 , I knew we'd be in good hands. Twenty-four passengers aged 10 to 70, plus Gander, the captain's Frisian dog, completed the ship's company.

After a lunch of hearty vegetable soup and turkey sandwiches on that scrumptious fresh bread, Ike, a petite blonde dynamo attempted to explain the rigging and masts to those of us interested in learning to sail. There's no pressure to lend a hand on the Europa; you can do as much or little as you please.

Likewise with the shore excursions. In the various ports where we stopped there was always an opportunity to paddle the kayaks, take the bikes ashore for a ride, go on a guided hike or just sit on deck with a good book. But the best part was the chance to meet the locals. And believe me when the Europa made her majestic entrance into ports the locals came out in droves to greet us.

In Woody Point the mayor took a few of us for a walk about town. I commented on a lovely house and next thing we knew we were invited in for a tour.

At Lark Harbour about 10 of us were hiking to Bottleneck Cove when we met Buddy and his Golden Retriever. Buddy insisted we stop in and "use the facilities whiles I put the kettle on."

Later we were all invited to a "scoff 'n scuff" at Marlaine's Cafe. Marlaine's family and friends had spent the day cooking such local delicacies as roasted moose, cod tongues, squid and Jiggs dinner.

After the scoff, the chairs and tables were pushed against the walls to make room for the scuff. Local musicians brought out their fiddles, banjos and guitars, out came the Screech and we had what Newfoundlanders call a kitchen party. Even Captain Klaas kicked up his heels.

GETTING OUR SEA LEGS

Sometimes the locals came aboard. One afternoon a couple of fishermen drew alongside in their dinghy and traded chef Tom a big vat of mussels for a bottle of rum. Another day, a chap dressed like Captain Cook came aboard and explained how he'd charted these waters in the 1700s.

Bill and I were getting our sea legs. We became quite adept at showering in the tiny head in our berth. The rocking and the slapping of the waves lulled us to sleep.

Wooden Lighthouse at Woody Point.

Chef Tom tempted us with fabulous meals, often buying fresh fish from locals along the way. The crew pulled out all the stops for the Captain's Dinner, serving champagne, crab bisque, beef tenderloin in Madeira sauce and fruit flan.

Later, first mate Boogie strummed his guitar and entertained us with Dutch sea shanties.

On our last day, we took a three-hour hike to the base of Gros Morne, picking wild blueberries along the trail.

Back on the Europa we decided to challenge ourselves by climbing the rigging under Mark's careful tutelage. Bill reached the yardarm of the main mast's Royal sail; I made it to the crow's nest.

We traded addresses and phone numbers with our new friends and waved farewell to the Europa and her crew in Point Norris. Farewell but not goodbye, for this was a voyage from which we'll never really return.

Dressed Captain James Cook, interpreter Gerard Duffeney explains how the explorer charted these waters in the 1700s. Some of Cook's charts are still used today.

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BOTTOM LINE

Canadian Sailing Expeditions: For the 2005 season, tall ship Concordia replaces the Europa. Visit cansailexp.com.

The Europa under sail.

Captain Klaas Gaastra at the helm.