Take a BC Ferry to the Gulf Islands -- the scenic trip is part of the pleasure. (Tourism British Columbia)

Saturna, Gabriola, Galiano: Their names roll around the tongue like Italian wines. But they're islands, not vintages, and 225 of them form an archipelago, the Gulf Island in the Strait of Georgia between mainland British Columbia and Vancouver Island.

Seeing them from the deck of a B.C. ferry two summers ago led to daydreams of spending a week hop-scotching among them. Reality was one night last month on the more prosaically named Salt Spring.

Much of Salt Spring is still bucolic and slow-paced. Drive off the ferry at Fulford, at the mountainous and sparsely populated south end, and you see roadside signs for muscovy ducks, free-range eggs and lavender, and pass wineries, apple orchards and a stand selling flowers on the honour system.

The roads are well-surfaced but full of hills and curves. Hit 50 km/h and you think you're flying, which is just as well given the number of people out cycling, jogging, hiking or walking their dogs.

Ganges, the commercial and cultural hub, is a different story. Besides the island's population of 10,500, it attracts lots of overnight visitors and day-trippers. It bills itself as a pedestrian-oriented village, and walking is the smart thing to do once you've stashed the car.

Everything edible seems to be organic. Getting a coffee at Barb's Buns, recommended by a contact, involved scanning a long list of choices. I chose tea, which came with loose leaves, and passed on the optional soy milk. The clientele included grizzled remnants of the hippie '60s and teen girls with piercings and day-glo hair.

So many artists have settled on the island that the Salt Spring Studio tour runs from mid-May to the end of September each year. You can watch artists at work on Thursdays. If you visit next year, pick up a studio tour map at the visitor information centre or visit saltspringstudiotour.com.

Another event to keep in mind for next year is the ArtCraft, an annual show and sale featuring works by more than 200 Gulf Islands artists. It runs from mid-May to mid-September at Manon Hall in Ganges. See artcraftgallery.ca.

Getting there

BC Ferries serves Salt Spring from Tsawwassen (Vancouver), Swartz Bay (Victoria, and Crofton, halfway between Victoria and Nanaimo. Sailing the sparkling blue waters on a sunny day is a real treat, with great views. Reservations are taken on the Tsawwassen-Gulf Islands route but not on shorter ones such as Swartz Bay to Salt Spring. Call 1-888-223-3779 or visit bcferries.com.

Accommodations

Choose from walk-in campsites at Ruckle Provincial Park to spa resorts. Reservations are recommended. We were spoiled with a night at Anne's Oceanfront Hideaway B&B, in a secluded location at the north end of the island. It's lovely and luxurious, warm and welcoming. Rooms start at $210, including a gourmet breakfast. Phone 1-888-474-2663 or visit annesoceanfront.com.

Food & drink

House Piccolo came highly recommended and didn't disappoint. More casual and less expensive choices included Tree House and Artist's Bistro. All are in Ganges.

Tourism information

Tourism Vancouver Island: Visit islands.bc.ca or call 250-754-3500. Tourism British Columbia: see hellobc.com or call 1-800-435-5622.