Bargaining for goods at China's markets is a true art. (Clipart.com)

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When talking about the great, monolithic city of Beijing, many things come to mind: The upcoming Summer Olympic Games, the Great Wall, the Imperial Palace, Tiananmen Square, the Winter Palace, the Temple of Heaven and more. But there's another attraction that stands out in my mind -- the new Silk Alley Market, which for some shoppers (including this one) is heaven on earth.

Don't let the name deceive you: It's not just a silk market. It's a market sure, but a whole lot more. And forget all you have heard about China's communist system. Communism doesn't come into the equation when it comes to market buying and selling.

The new indoor market replaces the decaying outdoor Silk Alley, which was notorious for selling designer knock-offs and was destroyed by the city in 2005. In its place, Beijing erected a five-storey edifice, which covers more than 28,000 square metres and is formally called Xiushui Market. The new indoor version has 1,600 booths selling merchandise of all kinds -- everything from silks to watches, from electronics to draperies.

An entrance linked to the subway line makes it very convenient for shoppers. And with the Olympics just around the corner, several parking lots have sprung up in the two squares around the building. There is also a clinic for foreigners and a foreign reception room. I heard the new market is even signing agreements with travel agencies abroad and that some vendors will receive language training.

Market vendors are known for their agressive sales tactics and there's a right way and a wrong way to deal with them. Still, you can get some great deals if you know where to look and how to haggle. Handle merchants in a direct and firm businesslike manner, and you'll be fine. However, if you act like a tourist who really needs to buy something, they have you. Vendors can smell inexperience and they'll make you pay. The best way to avoid that is to always be ready to walk away. That way, merchants know you mean business. And believe me, they'll come running after you with -- often with a better deal.

A fairly typical encounter goes like this: "You mister," a 50-something rotund man wearing a Lacoste cap says as he reaches out and pulls me to his kiosk. "You very handsome with round, blue eyes ... you need something?"

"What have you got?" I ask.

Six pairs of sunglasses materialize in one hand, assorted designer T-shirts in the other. "You want, Dolce Gabana or maybe Armani sunglasses?"

And so the dance begins. I enter the stall, look around at the merchandise and try it on. Then out comes the vendor's secret weapon -- the calculator. Every kiosk has one. It's a badge of honour and the tool that provides their livelihood.

"For you my friend," the vendor continues, punching in an outlandish price and smiling as I try to make sense of it. I wrap my mind around the number and shake my head. The vendor punches in a new number, laughs and says, "Okay, best price."

Now we're duelling with numbers back and forth before I've even decided whether or not I want to buy the item. He offers me the calculator to punch in a price, has a look then shakes his head and gives another price. I look at him, and say: "No, no, no jokey price."

He wipes his mouth then replies, "Okay, okay no joke for you my good friend ... this is a very good price."

He puts in his numbers.

I laugh and say, "April Fool's day has passed. Give me your best unfair price."

And on it goes. "For you, only very good fair price."

Now I put in a new price, look at the time, and say I have to go soon.

Through all of this back and forth there is a rhythm. When the vendor starts saying how good the quality is -- how he has to feed his family -- I'm ready to walk.

I count backwards from 10 while walking away. By the time I get to five, he runs up and drags me back to his kiosk before another merchant can grab me.

I quickly pay. He smiles and gives me some business cards to circulate to friends.

I walk away with some nice patent leather shoes and beautiful pearls at a fair price.

Next time I'll look for a leather jacket.

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TRAVEL TIP

Market shopping is buyer beware but you can get some great deals. Look for quality goods and start haggling at less than 10% of the vendor's suggested price and work up from there. Otherwise you can pay up to three times the real price of an item. Currently $1 Cdn. is equivalent to about 7 yuan.