Re-enactor Glenn Daigle holds a working replica of a 1700s military musket. (Sun Media/Ian Robertson)

LOUISBOURG, N.S. -- The British are coming! The British are coming! So are the Americans. And the Canadians.

Man the guns ... mon Dieu!

During the 18th century, the sight of more than 700 soldiers armed with muskets spelled doom for the embattled soldiers at the largest French military enclave in the Maritimes. But this summer, a friendly invasion marking the 250th anniversary of the second and last siege will pose no threat to the Parks Canada re-enactors dressed in blue uniforms.

From July 24 to 26, an "encampment" of regiments will occupy space around the Fortress of Louisbourg, near the pretty and thriving fishing port that carries on the name.

Attacked twice by British troops and the Royal Navy, the giant stone fortress was first returned after a treaty, then levelled by Scottish sappers a year after the last and successful bombardment in 1758.

Begun in the 1500s as a small fishing village, Fortress Louisbourg was constructed just over 200 years later and manned with soldiers who defended it as the capital of Ile Royale -- later named Nova Scotia -- and Ile Saint-Jean, present-day Prince Edward Island. Its strategic location near the mouth of the St. Lawrence River gave its 250 cannons a commanding view against potential invaders trying to reach Quebec City, the capital of New France.

When the fortress fell, its loss paved the way for Brig.-Gen. James Wolfe's successful attack on Quebec City the following year, in 1759, which led to the British takeover, Parks Canada spokesman Mark Sajatobich said during my visit last fall.

Re-enactors will arrive in the Cape Breton town with authentic uniforms, weapons and kits. They represent regiments from several colonial battles. Adding to the authenticity of the weekend encampment will be the presence of a historic-style social club, dancers, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic from Halifax, merchants and spies.

In addition to fun and socializing, Sajatobich said such visitors "are very historically knowledgeable."

After the lower town, walls and government buildings were demolished, scavengers used the surviving materials to build nearby homes and shops. Declared a historic site in 1928, the fortress was partly rebuilt by the federal government 47 years ago. It is North America's biggest historical reconstruction site.

Visitors are greeted by staff dressed in costumes based on records found in Paris in a repository that contains maps, letters -- even recipes for food served in local taverns. Portraying a variety of characters, they explain the positive side plus hardships faced in such an outpost.

The day I stepped into the sod-roofed home of "Madame Jeanne De Roche," who came from the Basque part of France, re-enactor Carl Boudreau described her as "pretty smart, not just a fish merchant." Unlike in their homeland, women could own property here back then.

The first level of the home -- a reproduction of one of the 800 French cottages used mostly by cod fishermen -- was a dirt floor tavern, where she served West Indies rum. To make the potent 70%-to-80% alcohol brew drinkable, "you had to mix it with butter and hot water," Boudreau said.

Yum!

Next, when we stepped through the stone entrance gates, my group was greeted by a uniformed officer-in-training portrayed by Wayne Boudreau, who let us pass once we swore to a lack of guns tucked under our coats.

"I can trace the first Boudreau from France," he jovially confided.

In addition to the port buildings, including inns where visitors can enjoy authentic 18th century meals, there are homes, a church, the governor's mansion, storehouses and workshops.

This was a busy port, with ships docking from Boston, New York, Philadelphia France, the Caribbean, Acadia and Quebec. At its height, Louisbourg had more than 4,000 residents, about half those in Quebec and almost as many as Montreal.

Its citizens included aristocrats, peasants, sailors, indentured servants and soldiers. The governor, officers and their ladies enjoyed a posh life in big homes, wearing the latest fashions and wigs from France. They also ate well, enjoyed good wines, books, dancing and live music. The lower classes mostly ate fish, but on a good day, chicken, pork and garden vegetables.

Visitors can see a good representation of the sites and lifestyles, including re-enactments of military drills and the occasional musket firing.

You might also meet Anne Marie, who makes brooms after walking here from a cottage outside the walls, which she shares with her fisherman husband.

Though life was generally good, several hundred residents died from a smallpox epidemic in 1733. There were no trained doctors, medical treatment being supplied by priests, with nuns as nurses.

In addition to historic representations, Fortress Louisbourg is still teaching researchers about the past. Each year, archeologists and students explore what lies beneath tons of grass-covered rubble. Two years ago, a mass grave was unearthed, Sajatobich said.

There are also stories that not all former inhabitants of long ago are gone. Fleeting glimpses of people in 18th century garb have been reported in buildings where no sign of the living was found upon investigation. True or not, such stories add intrigue.

In addition to the military encampment this July, other events will make Fortress Louisbourg a fabulous destination this year. These include a fisherman's carnival, a playhouse, a parade, children's events and a crabfest.

Between 5,000 and 10,000 extra visitors are expected for the weekend, Sajatobich said.

The town of 1,265 is also worth a visit. There are many shops, several good restaurants specializing in fresh seafood and good inns catering to couples and families.

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BOTTOM LINE

MORE INFORMATION

Louisbourg is on Cape Breton Island, southeast of the city of Sydney and is easily accessible by road and air. The town is located on Hwy. 22. For lodgings, see staycanada.ca/nova_scotia/louisbourg. For travel information, visit Nova Scotia's official tourism website -- novascotia.com.

TO KNOW

You reach the fortress by bus from a large Parks Canada interpretive centre. Check ahead for evening extras such as a candlelight tour that includes a meal and wine-tasting. Tickets for this year's grand siege demonstration and 18th century fireworks on July 26 are $17.58 for adults, $11.50 for children under 12. Day visitors will not be charged extra to visit the encampment. For details, contact 1-902-733-2280 or fortresslouisbourg.ca.