By
MIKE DeJONG -- Special to CANOE Travel
Summertime in the south of France normally means burning-hot sun and hordes of tourists. In July and August particularly, it seems all of Europe descends upon the region. The heat was unbearable the last time I went two years ago. I remember slogging a bag up the steps of Avignon's Palais des Papes with the sweat rolling off my face. My T-shirt had stuck to my back. The humidity at a sidewalk cafe turned my Niçoise salad into a flaccid lump of lettuce. This time, I traveled to the Riviera and Provence in autumn and the conditions could not have been more pleasant. The temperature was mild, about 20 C and cooler in the evening, yet the skies were still cobalt blue. And the spectacular red and green autumn colors jumped off the trees.
Best of all, the hordes of tourists had disappeared.
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Driving my rental car up the winding roads to the top of the village, I learned why France produces so many Formula One drivers. Concentration is important here, as are strong nerves. Several times, I came within millimetres of a medieval wall. At the summit of Haut-de-Cagnes is the Château Grimaldi, which reminded me of the castle from the Friendly Giant. You have to look way up to see the top of this imposing 14th century fortress. Built by the first Rainier Grimaldi, the flag-topped castle stands guard over the village. It is also the centre of artistic activity. Inside is a museum of modern art featuring works from across the Côte d'Azur. After visiting the castle, I headed 500 metres down the hill to Cagnes-sur-Mer. Here, neatly tucked away amongst 300-year-old olive trees is the Musée Renoir. My excellent guide, Jean-Marc Nicolai, from the local tourist office took me on a tour of the painter's home and studio.
Renoir lived here the last 12 years of his life, when he was wracked by rheumatoid arthritis. A photo on the wall is particularly poignant; it shows Renoir's swollen arthritic hands.
Not far from Haut-de-Cagnes lies the once fortified village of Mougins. Only seven kilometres north of Cannes, Mougins and is a favourite spot for celebrities during the film festival. From the top of the hill, you can see the beaches of Cannes to the south and the perfume capital of Grasse to the north. Celebrities come to Mougins for the food, particularly the world famous Moulin de Mougins. This 16th century olive mill is one of two restaurants in Mougins to earn Michelin stars. Chef Alain Llorca took over the Moulin from Roger Verge two years ago. Llorca is known for his creative and spontaneous Cuisine du Soleil. "The client wants to be surprised. He wants to discover new things," Llorca tells me as I bite into some succulent venison. Autumn is, of course, hunting season in Provence and Llorca likes to keep his menu current. Several times a week, Chef Eric Houard leads English cooking classes at the Moulin. Today, I join some American cruise-ship passengers in learning to make chicken stuffed with olive paste and thyme.
"It is very interesting for me," says Houard of working at the Moulin. "I know with Mr. Verge one way. Now I have another way. Completely different. Younger." After my lesson, I visit the village. It is bright, clean and bursting with fall colours. The smell of jasmine tickles my nose as I visit a Provençal pottery shop.
Mougins is so lovely, I can see why Picasso lived here the last 15 years of his life.
The lights from the houses across the valley twinkled in the early morning mist. The buildings slowly came into view as the morning light broke over La Cadière d'Azur. To say that the view from our hotel terrace was stunning would do the word injustice.
"You have a mixture of treasures in France," says Stéphane Zanarelli, sales manger of the Hostellerie Bérard, where I rented a room. This three-star ensemble of country houses is capped by an 11th century convent. The hotel is in the heart of La Cadière, and overlooks the vineyards of Bandol.
I am quickly whisked down the hill and across to La Bastide, a small farmhouse with blue shutters and large vegetable gardens. I am about to take a painting class with local artist Francois Beaumont. With the birds singing and autumn breezes blowing in the window, Beaumont teaches me how to mix watercolors in the ochres and olive greens of Provence. "Take your time," he says as my rough sketch begins to take shape. Francois has been painting for 15 years, so he knows all the secrets. And he has the patience to guide beginners like me.
After my two-hour class, I am ready for lunch. Zanarelli whips me back up the hill for a sumptuous meal of roast duck at René Bérard's restaurant. The lunch is so good, my companion says she wants to cry.
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La Cadière d'Azur is about 40 km east of Marseille.
THINGS TO DO
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