Photos by Anne Shapiera

I had always envisioned Thailand as an intriguing contradiction of serene beauty and an exotic city that never sleeps. As it turns out, I wasn't too far off.

Thailand is stunningly beautiful with its postcard perfect palms and pristine beaches, but at its center is Bangkok, a vibrant city filled with steamy alleyway massage parlours, street side vendors and endless crowds of people.

For honeymooners, Thailand had a bit of everything: romance, adventure and a countryside rich in history worthy of exploration.

Arriving into Bangkok, we found endless rows of cars, scooters and the infamous three-wheeled, motorized Tuk-Tuk taxis. The streets were crowded with fish markets, restaurants, souvenir stands and a 7-Eleven store on every corner.

After quickly checking into our hotel, my new husband and I decided to venture out to explore the streets of Bangkok before our organized adventure-style tour began.

It took a few days to discover that the magic of Thailand stood shyly behind the pollution and palm trees.

Skeptical at first due to the overwhelming traffic and visible pollution, I was soon enthralled by the vibrant markets of fresh food, the aroma of coconut and curry, and a sea of gracious faces, blushing at our request to take their picture.

Bangkok is the ultimate shopper's paradise, with dozens of gift-oriented markets ripe for a savvy bargain hunter. Haggling is a must and works best if done light-heartedly with a smile. Language is a non-issue as the pricing game is all done through offers on a rotating calculator. However, the phrases "no, too much" and "okay, how much you pay?" seem to be known by all.

Our small group assembled the next morning and we headed north of Bangkok where the landscape became noticeably more lush and picturesque. The countryside was alive with rolling hills of palms and sweeping rice fields, spotted with clusters of bamboo huts. Villages of families tucked away in the grasses peeked out at us with a smile as we drove by.

Typically, hotels in Thailand were a series of one-roomed bungalows, with a main house for dining. They ranged from structures built out of cemented river rocks to bamboo frames with woven grass roofs. These cozy guesthouses were private and impeccably clean. Often situated on either a beach or lake, they were unquestionably romantic and the perfect getaway for honeymooners.

From our first guesthouse, our local guides sat us down in a Long Tail boat (a large wooden canoe with no seats and a long motorized propeller) and shuttled us across the lake, where remnants of a flooded town still protruded the surface.

Next we went ashore up-river for an elephant ride through the jungle. The elephants were gentle and accommodating as we stumbled our way up their shoulders into the passenger baskets. Its topsy-turvy nature made for an admittedly childlike fun way to experience the jungles of Thailand. Our ride up mud hills and through a river was an exotic escape from my usual days of emails. A definite highlight.

We did a quick dismount and ambled up a set of hand-carved mud stairs to our destination, a hillside village where a large extended family welcomed us generously into their home for a lunch of rice and egg, plus an opportunity to experience their rural life. Dogs and chickens ran freely underneath us with giggling youngsters close behind.

The village children for the most part were happily splashing in the river, but a few curious eyes shyly managed to peer in to watch us enjoy our lunch. A few boys ventured in to investigate the digital cameras of the group. Amazed at the instant nature of the photos, they were eager to have their picture taken repeatedly to see the rapid results.

In the following days, our agenda included a visit to a local orphanage and a Karin village elementary school. Unusual tourist stops perhaps, but they proved to be some of the best.

Expecting to encounter a crowded room of sad faces with devastating stories, the orphanage proved to be one of the most uplifting days on our visit.

Staffed by volunteers from all over the world, this home was filled with laughter and alive with a "family" of parentless children running and playing. With classes in dance, drama, yoga, English, and traditional disciplines, they are blessed with an education not available to most rural children.

Happy to have visitors, they practiced their English with us and showed us around their craft studios. The orphanage also houses a small gift shop, which sells the students' weaving and art projects. All proceeds go towards funding both structural and program expansion.

The elementary school children welcomed us with a traditional Karin dance. About 30 young girls, dressed in white, performed a routine of simple steps with intricate hand gestures in perfect synchronicity.

We gave our thanks for their gracious welcome with apples, a treat not often enjoyed as they are too expensive for the families to purchase. This was followed by a game of balloon stomping in their one-room schoolhouse: Students versus the tourists. I was proud to be the last tourist standing, until my jealous (already eliminated) husband popped my balloon himself, thus handing the desired victory gloat a few moments sooner to my new mischievous young friends.

As before, I found myself captivated by the generous spirit and genuine smiles of the Thai people. Wherever we went, we were warmly welcomed with a gentle nod and an eagerness to show off their country with pride.

On our way back to Bangkok, we stopped to walk through the eerie rock cuttings of Hellfire Pass and took the local train across the infamous Bridge on the River Kwai. Several memorials and simple museums in town depicted the events which took place during the Japanese ruled construction of the Thai-Burma railway.

Discovering that my version of their history was more Hollywood than truth, it was both fascinating and emotionally draining to read the tattered newspaper and journal clippings first hand. History buff or not, this is a must see for every visitor to Thailand.

Heading south of Bangkok now, we found ourselves on our Greyhound-style bus, as the seasonal floods had washed out the railway. A two-hour ferry ride took us to our first island destination, Koh Phengan.

It is a small, picturesque island sprinkled with tourist bungalows, offering endless snorkeling opportunities and powdery-white beaches. The soft cotton hammock on our beachside balcony and the best green curry I've tasted were topped only by my 90-minute moonlit massage on the beach, for the equivalent of five Canadian dollars.

We visited two other larger islands, Koh Tao and Koh Samui, which boasted primarily the same characteristics: inexpensive tasty food; pristine beaches; consistent sunshine, and a welcoming smile from the local residents.

On our snorkeling trip, we had an unexpected "National Geographic" moment. Returning back to the hotel on our Long Tail boat, we noticed a sea turtle caught in some plastic debris, unable to swim, with one leg severed from the struggle. As a group, we were able to stabilize him and cut through the tightly twisted and strangling plastic and set the visibly excited turtle free in the ocean.

Developed for tourists, the islands offer paved walks which act as tours through the towns. They provide a safe, relaxing environment conducive to late evening strolls.

For shoppers, the bargains are not as plentiful as in Bangkok, but the experience is much less hectic. There are many levels of accommodation available, from basic bamboo huts to a more resort style of hotel, but even the economy lodging is exceptionally clean, quiet, comfortable and safe.

Group tours, although not for those who are admittedly free spirits, are an excellent way to visit this country, especially since the culture and language differs from Canada. Tours provide the best value for your money since they take advantage of group discounts not granted to solo travelers.

The tour guides offer a wealth of knowledge and history tourists on their own may not discover, and they pre-arrange all transportation and accommodation details. That saves you countless hours of administrative time and potential frustration. Tours make for fulfilling, inexpensive and hassle-free vacations.

From the exceptional bargain shopping in Bangkok to relaxing in the beachside restaurants of the south, Thailand offers a rare opportunity to combine adventure and romance into one all-encompassing yet inexpensive holiday. For a honeymoon, you couldn't ask for more.