Richard Branson has turned a South African game reserve into a world-class, five-star property. Rhinos share the space. -- Photos by Rick Sammon, AP

Who can say what prompted U.K. billionaire Sir Richard Branson to purchase this African game reserve? Maybe he liked the name, Ulusaba, which means "place of little fear."

The tribe which occupied the area long ago found safety here, using the hills above the surrounding bushveld as an outpost against surprise enemy attacks.

Or perhaps Branson was attracted by the challenge. He bought the property in 1999, just months after the main building at the Rock Lodge was struck by lightning and burned to the ground, followed, a few months later, by a massive bushfire which nearly destroyed the neighbouring Safari Lodge.

Undaunted, the famous entrepreneur set about converting the two lodges (which, combined have 18 rooms) into world-class, five-star properties.

No doubt the reserve's location played a major role in his purchase decision. Part of greater Kruger National Park, Ulusaba (the setting for a recent TV episode of The Rebel Billionaire) is home to an amazing variety of wildlife.

After just two days we'd seen all of the "Big Five" -- a term which refers to those animals that posed the greatest risk to hunters on foot (rhinos, lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo) -- many of them at such close range that a telephoto lens, usually a requirement for decent photos on safari, wasn't even needed.

In fact you don't have to go out in the Land Rover at all to see the wildlife. At the Safari Lodge, where we stay, baboons are the most frequent and noisiest visitors, but large game can also be spotted from the guest rooms.

You never know what, or for that matter, who, you'll see here. After checking into my room, "River 4," which required traversing two swinging bridges, I was told Bill Gates had stayed in the same room recently for three nights. Had I arrived two weeks earlier, actress Salma Hayek (who stayed in "River 2") would have been my neighbour.

Branson visits Ulusaba about four times a year, and when he does, head ranger, Karl Langdon (who was also our guide) usually takes the boss out in the Land Rover.

During the course of our stay, we learn Sir Richard has been instrumental in providing funds for local economic development initiatives, such as the creation of a small farm in a neighbouring village, which now supplies produce for the Ulusaba kitchen.

Guests can also take an excursion to a Shangaan village to sample local food, see a traditional warrior dance, and meet a sangoma or spiritual healer. Part of the $35 US tour fee pays the performers, while another part goes into a separate fund for additional community projects.

Much of the time at Ulusaba though is spent driving through the bush. Just minutes into our first outing, we encounter several hippos in a large pond, their entire bodies -- except for ears, eyes and snouts -- submerged. Since they don't have hair to protect their skin, the animals get sunburned easily and so prefer to stay in the water during the day.

We observe in silence for a while, then, as we start the engine to leave, one of the hippos decides to display his dental weaponry. He opens his mouth up wide and makes a loud territorial grunt.

"That's his way of telling the rest of the herd: 'Look I've chased them off,'" Langdon says.

Entrepreneur and billionaire Richard Branson.

Over the next two days we witness a variety of behaviours including three lions who lay panting heavily after a feast; a couple of rhinos enjoying a mud bath; and a leopard caressing her cubs.

A definite highlight was a chance to witness what some might describe as animal telepathy. One night we watch as four lionesses walk single file in front of our vehicle, oblivious to our presence. Langdon tells us the female at the back is the dominant of the pride and where she goes the rest will follow. Sure enough at one point, she leaves the track and veers left into the bush. The three lions in front, without once looking back, slowly begin moving to the left as well.

Without seeing their leader, how could they have known she had just changed direction? Acute hearing perhaps? Or was it lion ESP?

"Some people believe that they've got a sixth sense, they communicate telepathically," Langdon says. "On the many hunts I've witnessed and the lion behaviour I've seen, I tend to believe that."

---

BOTTOM LINE

- For details on accommodation, visit ulusaba.com.

- South African Airways, which flies direct from New York to Johannesburg, has recently added a new extra-wide 180-degree horizontal lie-flat bed for travellers in Premium Business Class. For details call 800-722-9675 or check flysaa.com.