Fishermen are part of Tabarka's charm. -- Photos by Steve Smith

As if on cue the audience erupts into a chant, repeating, "Archie, Archie" until a fedora-topped Archie Shepp -- the American jazz legend -- arrives, shiny sax in hand and begins his song of seduction. Women in sleeveless tank tops, midriffs exposed, sway their coiled tresses while guys flash lighters skyward. With the Mediterranean sea breeze cooling this crowd shoehorned into an ancient Roman amphitheatre, we are ready.

But who would have thought a jazz festival would be a sellout in Tunisia? To boot, Tabarka is smack on the coast, protected by the high mountains of Khourmirie. The towering peaks are topped with thick forests of pine, cork and eucalyptus.

Started nine years ago as an effort to put this off-the-beaten-path town on the map, the Tabarka Jazz Festival has evolved into a premiere jazz event, Mediterranean style.

ALL ABOUT THE MUSIC

Devoid of the heavy commercialism plaguing other jazz events, there are no T-shirt sales, CD purchases or large tacky corporate billboards. This event is all about the music.

Artists from around the world perform in one of the world's earliest outdoor theatres while a handful of thankfully under-utilized security guards toe tap and fixate on the performance.

"I came to the Mother Continent for this. We got the music in us," screeches bluesman Billy Paul.

Our introduction to Tunisian nightlife couldn't be better.

Long popular with Tunisians, to Canadian tourists Tabarka is one of the country's best-kept secrets. It makes a great alternative to the congested seaside resort towns of Hammamet and Sousse.

Flanked by Algeria to the west and the Mediterranean Sea to the north, with Sicily 80 km away, Tabarka's craggy underwater realm is a treasure chest of coral and fish, making it an ideal fishing village.

The ancient Phoenicians called the verdant hillside "Thabraca" meaning "shaded place." They packed terracotta urns onto their vessels on their outward journeys. The Romans, too, hailed the location as an important trading port for olive oil, timber and wild cats such as panthers and lions.

ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE

Today, vestiges of ancient civilizations are still evident with 4th-century Roman ruins like the Basilica, a converted Roman cistern, now an amphitheatre used for performances.

With the addition of a new airport tourists are flocking to this seaside village that is evolving into a resort town. A handful of swanky resorts like the all-inclusive Robinson Club are popping up just outside city limits.

Pottery and leather goods fill the shops of the sleepy town where haggling is the norm.

Home to roughly 10,000 residents, Tabarka is sleepy, dreamy Mediterranean place where the main thoroughfare is lined with smoke-filled cafes and shops selling handcrafted bobbles, wooden camels, ceramics and leather wares.

For Canadian travellers, the art of haggling can be stressful. But in Tunisia, haggling is an art form and clearly ends with an exchange that sometimes concludes in friendship or a dinner invitation.

One morning, I was admiring some slippers along Habib Bourguiba Avenue when a handsome Omar Sharif-like vendor sidled up beside me. Before you knew it, a portable table and chairs were neatly assembled in the middle of this craft emporium. He was ready for business, and a small glass of steeping mint tea made its way into my hand.

Amid a network of purses and bags hanging precariously from the rafters, I was stuck in the middle of my first Tunisian shopping exchange.

Squeezing into my mini chair, I watched magic numbers being scribbled onto a pad as the vendor shrugs his shoulders, smiles and circles the final score. One hundred dinars later, I shuffled off with an overstuffed bag of handcrafts and a promise of dinner.

Later, I flipped through my Lonely Planet, researching the archeological sites of Dougga and Bulla Regia. But ultimately I decided to ditch archeology and spend a lazy afternoon by the pool. I relaxed surrounded by the now familiar aroma of mint tea then watched a crowd gather around the ice cream stand.

A familiar face in a black cowboy hat slipped by unnoticed. Eliades Ochoa from Buena Vista Social Club, the jazz festival's opening night performer, was making a clean getaway.

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BOTTOM LINE

TOURING INFORMATION: Tunisia is the northernmost country in Africa. It's only 80 km southwest of Sicily and is slightly larger than Florida. Tunisia's population is just over 9 million. More than half the population is under 18 years old. Tunisian women enjoy considerable freedom when compared to other Muslim countries. Tunisia is bilingual (Arabic and French). I stayed at the newly built Robinson, a German/English-speaking all-inclusive resort with gorgeous pools. Scuba lessons and daily activities are available on site. Visit robinsontunisie.com/en.

GETTING THERE: There are no direct international flights from Canada to Tunisia. I flew Air France via Paris to Tunis.

MORE INFORMATION: Contact the Tunisian Tourist Office at 514-397-1182/0403 or tourismtunisia.com.