A view of Pushkar. (Shutterstock)

India for first-time visitors

PUSHKAR, India -- "Madam, camel ride, 200 rupees, cheap, okay?" a man beckons amidst the crowd.

The animal, which is pulling a gaily painted wooden cart with a canopy, is so fully adorned in colourful textiles, pompoms and tassels, I can barely see its eyes.

"Maybe later," I tell the handler.

At the Pushkar Camel Fair, one of India's most spectacular festivals, weird and wonderful sights abound, and it's easy to get distracted. More than 200,000 people -- from performers, vendors and sadhus, to folk artists, snake charmers, and tourists -- converge in the town for the annual fair, which takes place this year from Oct. 25 to Nov. 2.

About 50,000 camels and cattle are bought and sold during the first few days. But for visitors the real attraction is the cultural performances and sideshows in a carnival-like atmosphere, plus a chance to shop for a wide variety of handicrafts from around India.

It's a risk arriving without a hotel reservation but I manage to secure a room in the Raj Shree, a new property which, lucky for me, hasn't yet received much publicity. The hotel brings in a variety of entertainers and during lunch on the first day, I watch in amazement, as a magician pulls doves from his sleeve! Then, on the street, a while later, I encounter a man in a red turban, who proudly unfurls his mustache, which measures about a metre on either side -- obviously a contestant in the longest moustache competition the previous day.

Walking toward the fairgrounds I wonder what other bizarre sights I might see. The official program is a bit cryptic. It lists, for example, a Shilp Gram, a Matka Competition, and a Desert Symphony.

Somewhere between the Ferris wheel and an expansive camp where camels and horses are tethered near tents pitched in the sand, are the Mela Grounds, where several performances seem to be happening simultaneously. At one end, a child acrobat walks on a tightrope, elsewhere monkeys in frilly outfits ride miniature bicycles, and sadhus (holy men) stroll the grounds offering their special brand of mystic services.

There are also games and contests in which locals and tourists are invited to take part. After days as a spectator I eventually join one of them -- the women's water-pot race. The large clay jug, filled with water, is surprisingly heavy. I place it on top of my head, but the best I can manage is a brisk walk. The vessel is crushing my skull. Cringing in pain, I watch the slender Indian women clad in elegant saris, accustomed to such physical feats, easily race ahead.

By the end, we are all covered in a mixture of sand (kicked up as we ran) and water (which continually spilled from the jug in the rush to the finish line).

There are prizes for the winners -- beautiful carvings and restaurant vouchers. Even last place finishers (like me) get something. But there is such a mad crush of competitors from the various contests who have gathered near the judges table, that I simply accept whatever is handed to me. And that's how I ended up with a certificate recognizing my participation in the men's tug of war!

The best entertainment occurs in the evenings when professional dance and music troupes, many of them from the state of Rajasthan, perform. One of the most memorable acts involved a man who danced while balancing about 10 brass pots atop his head!

Most exhilarating of all, though, is the final day parade, which includes all the performers and contestants during the entire fair -- the longest moustache competitors, camels in full regalia, and hundreds of costumed dancers and musicians in a swirl of colour and lively sounds.

Soon I'd be packing my bags and joining the massive throngs leaving town. But for now I have just one thought: Long live the Pushkar Camel Fair!

IF YOU GO TO INDIA

- Hotel fill up quickly and room prices increase during the fair. Hotel Raj Shree is a good option -- clean, quiet, comfortable just a few minutes walk from the fair grounds. It offers good dinner-time entertainment on the rooftop patio. Rates start around $250 during the fair (at non peak times rates start under $50). Meals are very inexpensive and all the entertainment at the fair is free. For more, check hotelrajshree.com.

- Pushkar's other main event coincides with the fair. Thousands of Hindu pilgrims arrive in town in the days leading up to the full moon, when they will set candles afloat on the holy Pushkar Lake and take a dip in the sacred waters to wash away the sins of a lifetime. Many will also worship at the Brahma Temple, said to be the only temple of its kind dedicated to the Hindu god creator.

- Pushkar is worth exploring at any time of year. See village life up close on a walk around the lake, which is ringed by dozens of temples and 52 bathing ghats. For tourism information, visit incredibleindia.org or call 1-866-97-INDIA or check rajasthantourism.gov.in.

WRITER@INTERLOG.COM