Feast of fresh crabs in Sai Kung restaurant

From fishing village to British Colony, Hong Kong became a Special Administrative Region of the People's Republic of China with the handover in 1997.

Fret not. It's lost none of its cosmopolitan glamour and glitter. There's a hustle, bustle and buzz here like nowhere else on the planet. And just because you haven't won the lottery doesn't mean you can't indulge in some frivolous fantasies in the "Manhattan of Asia." (All prices approximated in Canadian dollars.)

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One lump or two

Far from the madding crowd, enjoy high tea (about $50 for two) at The Peninsula Hotel. Under the gilded, coffered ceiling of the exquisite lobby, you'll sip your Oolong and nibble finger sandwiches and scones with clotted cream. If smart cocktails and gourmet fusion are more to your liking, take the elevator up to Felix, an ultra-chic bar and eatery designed by Philippe Starck. Check out the view from the men's toilet. peninsula.com.

Shangri La

Rooms start at about $400 but complimentary privileges at the aptly named Shangri-La hotel in Kowloon include airport limo transfers, laundry and dry cleaning, international buffet breakfast at Cafe Kool, Internet and local telephone calls. My room came with a butler who greeted me with a basket of tea. shangri-la.com.

Retail Therapy

Even if you buy nothing, drop into one of the Shanghai Tang stores for retail eye candy. From bed linens to fragrance to men's and women's clothing, traditional Chinese designs have been updated to create fabulous fusion fashion. Drop your remaining HK dollars at the airport location. shanghaitang.com.

Heli golf

Take a jaunty red helicopter from the Kowloon Heliport to The Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau Golf Course. About $300 buys the return flight, green fee for 18 holes and meal.

helihongkong.com.

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Don't miss the boat

Neon signs light up the night in Hong Kong

Ride the Star Ferry between Kowloon Island and Central Hong Kong. First class costs about 50c and takes about 10 minutes. Join the all-day aquatic rush hour on Victoria Harbour for views of Hong Kong's futuristic skyscrapers, especially dramatic when illuminated at night.

Stanley Market

Open daily from about 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Stanley Market is my favourite haunt for cashmere, designer knock-offs, silk "happy coats" and you name it. Buyer beware: Haggling for a "genuine imitation" Rolex might be fun but your $20-dollar bargain might stop ticking before you get home. If you'd rather shop with peace of mind, look for stores displaying the Quality Tourism Services (QTS) sign, organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board.

Catch of the Hour

Your fish is so fresh it's still swimming in tanks outside a strip of seafood eateries in Sai Kung. Just point and they'll cook to order. My recent feast included steamed crab, scallops with glass noodles, razorback clams and whole steamed grouper with garlic and ginger. Sit outdoors for seaside views of sampans and junks.

Fish mongers await the day's catch.

Why the "Y"?

Rooms for two at the Salisbury YMCA start at about $120 but this is not your basic "Y." Prime location (beside the Peninsula Hotel and waterfront promenade), TV, air conditioning, two restaurants, playground, pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, fitness centre and hair salon are just some of the features. Reservations recommended, 800-537-8483 or ymcahk.org.hk.

Cultural Kaleidoscope

This free program, another brainchild of the Hong Kong Tourism Board, offers visitors a kaleidoscope of activities. Cruise aboard Duk Ling, the last junk in Hong Kong. Join a Kung Fu or Tai Chi class. Discover the secrets of shopping for pearls, antiques and jade. After taking the Chinese Tea Appreciation Class you'll understand the ancient saying, "Life is like tea. The longer it steeps, the richer it becomes." Visitor hotline: 852-2508-1234.