Macau’s historic city centre. (Photo courtesy of Macau Tourism)

Macau's history and culture have long been influenced by China -- its next door neighbour, and Portugal, which ruled the enclave for 400 years.

But the first glimpse of Macau on the ferry boat from Hong Kong offers no hint of these historic connections.

Instead, you see a row of tall narrow houses, of the sort you might encounter in Amsterdam.

Though they look historic, they're actually part of a new theme park called Fisherman's Wharf. The multi-million dollar development includes a mall, restaurants, rides and replicas of buildings from around the world including Cape Town and the Italian Riviera.

There's even a man-made volcano that erupts, and a Roman amphitheatre.

To experience the real Macau, you have to see the Historic Centre -- the oldest surviving European settlement in Asia. Recently designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it encompasses eight squares and 22 historic buildings and monuments.

Here you'll find the archaeological remains of the first western-style university in the Far East -- the College of St. Paul; the first modern lighthouse in China and examples of late Qing merchants' homes.

Some of the buildings are still being used for their original purposes, such as the Dom Pedro V Theatre, built in 1860.

To celebrate the UNESCO designation, government officials have proclaimed 2006 "Macau World Heritage Year."

Getting to heritage sites is easy. Almost all are within walking distance and free colour maps are available detailing all the attractions in the Historic Centre.

My self-guided tour began with a bang at A-Ma Temple, where noisy fireworks were being set off - apparently to ward away evil spirits. Named after the goddess of seafarers, the prayer pavilions are built on four levels set into a hill. Macau's name is actually derived from A-Ma-Gau, or place of A-Ma Temple.

In contrast to the temple, Senado Square offers a distinctly Mediterranean vibe. The most striking of all Macau's plazas, its pastel coloured neo-classical buildings are arranged around a pedestrian area noted for its wave patterned stone mosaic.

This is the most popular place for public events and celebrations. And, like A-Ma Temple, one of the most photographed.

See macautourism.gov.mo.

A-Ma temple. (Photo courtesy of Macau Tourism)

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BOOM TIMES

If you're looking for U.S.-style casinos and hotels you won't be disappointed. Macau, which is now a Special Administrative Region of China, is experiencing a building boom, thanks to an increase in visitors from China and a liberalization of gaming laws that have allowed international operators to set up shop here.

Macau's historic city centre. (Photo courtesy of Macau Tourism)