By
Ilona Kauremszky
KUALA LUMPUR, Malaysia -- Not long ago the world stood awestruck contemplating how Malaysia, a small country carved from the jungle, was able to erect an architectural masterpiece. It seems the Petronas Twin Towers captured many people's imaginations when they were crowned the world's tallest buildings. While the title has since been surpassed, the towers still reign as the world's tallest twin towers housing the tallest sky bridge in the world. This engineering marvel has come to represent a symbol of optimism for the future of modern Malaysia. The country has thrown itself head first into the fast track to the 21st century. In Kuala Lumpur or "KL" as it is called locally, there's an ultra cool monorail ferreting passengers high above the palm trees. On the city's southern periphery, there's the hi-tech urban centre called Putrajaya built on a scale for giants. In the 1800s, the British arrived to transform KL into a tin empire,
later it evolved into a rubber capital. Fast-forward 150 years and the city is morphing again into Tech Central with a twist as it strongly holds onto traditions of an ancient culture. With a mosaic of rich cultures that blend Malay, Indian, Chinese, Portguese, Dutch and British influences into one, it's no wonder this jungle country is dubbed,"Malaysia -- truly Asia." Venice of the East Melaka is where Malaysia was born.
Legend has it that around 600 years ago, Parameswara, a prince from Sumatra, rested beneath the shade of a Melaka tree and saw a mouse deer kick his dog into the river. So taken by the spunk of the animal, the prince interpreted this to be a good omen and decided to stay and name the place Melaka. Known as "Venice of the East," Melaka was once the largest port in Southeast Asia. A sprawling state, the entrepot was smack in the middle of the famous spice route, where gentle monsoon winds made for legendary sailing. The best way to experience Melaka is on a riverboat cruise or on one of the popular trishaws that line up at the brightly painted Dutch buildings surrounding Red Square. I hopped onto a boat spouting black diesel smoke and puttered off down the ancient Melaka River, passing dilapidated buildings that have seen better days. Later, I flagged down a trishaw intending a leisurely sightseeing tour in the steamy heat but getting something a little more stimulating. Aladdin, my driver, zigzagged through oncoming traffic. As a wall of steel loomed before us, I felt my heart jump into my throat. But Aladdin flashed me a reassuring wink and declared he had raced through these streets for more than 30 years. Roofless ruins "I love the heat," he said at our first stop, the historic Famosa Gate, which once belonged to a Portuguese fort. Although the fort is long gone, the roofless ruins of the nearby St. Paul's Church remain. Today, tourists meander up St. Paul's Hill. I ambled to a cage for a glance at the empty burial site of St. Francis Xavier. The Roman Catholic priest dubbed the "Apostle of the East" attempted to Christianize the area but died on a missionary trip to China. His remains were returned to Melaka only to be moved to Goa, India, his final resting place. Mammoth tombstones from Dutch nobility anchor the walls now laden with bright watercolour paintings by Francis Goh. I met the local celebrity artist, who showed me a collection of international newspaper articles profiling him. The church is his atelier. As the old man bid me adieu, he handed me a rolled newspaper -- a "gift" from our meeting, he said. I opened the gift before proceeding to the lively night market on Jonkers Street. Two delicate watercolour paintings opened up like a flower revealing handwritten words of wisdom penned by the artist. "If you don't use time -- time will use you," it read. Malaysians are known for their mottos and superstitions so I took this as I sign. Clutching my newfound pearls of wisdom, I set off among the vendors anxious to attract customers to their trinket tables. Some tout ancient healing remedies; others invite you to tea. One persuasive man effused how my smile exuded confidence and how rich I was because of it. And, although my pocketbook might not show it, after exploring these ancient towns, I did feel like a millionaire. This story was posted on Thu, September 7, 2006 More HeadlinesHong Kong's town and countryJapan's cherry blossoms help dispel disaster gloom Japan faces lean tourist season Thriving metropolis or ghost town? Japan's newest train ready for launch |
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