Any visitor is easily overwhelmed by the grandeur of Seoul, home to a staggering 24-million people in its metropolitan area. (Clipart.com)

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The assault on my senses began shortly after disembarking from the spacious Boeing 777 at Inchon International Airport, just outside the South Korean capital of Seoul.

A riot of neon signs bloom from the sides of an endless labyrinth of tall buildings, rank upon rank of street vendors hawk their wares over the din of amplified dance music, the smells of pork, seafood and the national dish of kimchi permeate the humid air and defy any wayward westerner to ignore them.

Any visitor is easily overwhelmed by the digital grandeur of Seoul, home to a staggering 24-million people in its metropolitan area.

But one doesn't have to look too far beyond the post-modern splendour and big- city bustle to find a deeply embedded culture and a sense of order that creates an indelible link between past and present.

Ancient Buddhist temples and imposing fortresses dating back hundreds of years blend almost seamlessly amongst a backdrop of towering skyscrapers and jammed highways that have sprouted from the jewel of the Korean peninsula since much of it was levelled a half-century ago in the Korean War.

A week in Seoul is very much like travelling in a time machine.

After mastering the city's intricate subway system, any part of Seoul is easily accessible for a reasonable price.

Deep in the heart of the city is Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1394 as the seat of power for the Joseon Dynasty and all but demolished by the Japanese during their occupation near the beginning of the last century, it has undergone exhaustive restorations to bring the massive compound back to its original splendour.

A short walk will take you to Insa-dong, a crowded market district with traditional tea houses, craft stores and Korean artwork along with Jogyesa Temple, the headquarters of Korea's largest Buddhist sect.

While Seoul has a deep respect for its history, it is among the most modern cities in Asia, offering any number of 21st century attractions for visitors.

Most foreigners are immediately drawn to Itaewon, a strip of shops and bars that caters to a western crowd where a skilled barterer can take home a tailored three- piece suit for about $100.

Those looking to get a real taste of Seoul's nightlife will venture to the crowded party nexus near Hongik University, where revellers can hop from traditional pubs to water-filled grottos with pumping techno music and beach-ball bashes.

Like everything in Korea, the electronics markets, as well as the massive department stores, are built on the principle that bigger is always better.

Even an evening out for some traditional Korean fare is bound to leave many of the tasty offerings abandoned on the table.

Korean barbecue is a feast for any small group with full plates of pork or shellfish cooked on table burners with garlic and tofu, while a number of side dishes, predominantly some of the 160 varieties of kimchi, are served.

Kimchi is a dish tightly intertwined with Korean culture -- a tasty combination of fermented vegetables made spicier thanks to the introduction in the 17th century of red pepper.

And no evening feast is complete without a bottle of soju, a distilled rice liquor that is a right of passage for any visitor trying, often with limited success, to fit in.

Koreans themselves pride themselves on their openness to outsiders and are always willing to help.

For westerners, however, some of the accepted norms may come as a surprise.

Armadas of scooters wind along crowded sidewalks, generally ignoring most traffic signals but few locals bat an eye at the practice.

Many Koreans are eager to test their language skills on obvious outsiders, leading to any number of conversations.

Seoul, along with all the large cities in South Korea, doesn't wind down as the night deepens, with restaurants, bars, clubs and karaoke rooms staying open all hours.

And amazingly, on pretty much any night of the week, most establishments always have some clientele eating or drinking no matter what the hour.

Seoul is truly a tale of two cities -- one unabashedly traditional and one ultra modern -- but both offer exciting experiences for those willing to sample each.