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CHIANG MAI, Thailand -- Beyond the more traditional methods of getting around -- planes, trains, automobiles and buses -- I was left hanging onto my seat for two special rides while in Thailand last August: On the back of a genial elephant in a northern jungle, and boating along Bangkok canals in a "reua hang yao" powered by a car engine and an open propeller. Return with me, once again, as I relive my experiences over several wonderful days.
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There comes a time in everyone's life when you simply must ride an elephant.
My first glimpse of these majestic creatures was a small wood-carved figurine belonging to my parents.
Until last year's trip here, I had only seen pachyderms in books, movies, on TV or -- occasionally -- in zoos.
In this lush northern area, about 1,800 Asian elephants roam wild in national parks, anther 3,000 are in private enclaves, Theerapat Trunprakan, a private breeder and owner of the Patara Elephant Farm, explained.
Over half work in tourism, others on farms, forests and mountains. They also appear in religious processions, statues of elephants decorate hotels and highways, and carvings of all sizes are for sale.
Thai elephants are symbolically important to monarchs, religion and the nation, which recorded 100,000 in the mid-1800s, when they were used as battle wagons. Today, every March 13, Happy Elephant Day is celebrated.
Accidents and hardship in built-up areas, plus tree harvesting in jungles, have reduced their numbers.
"The birth rate is lower than the dying level," Trunprakan said.
And despite border watches, some get smuggled into Myanmar, where deforestation continues and land mines left from old wars are still a threat.
South of Chiang Mai, Friends of Asian Elephants operate a free hospital for any who get injured or fall ill. Unlike herds of cattle and goats, elephants do best with one-on-one care, making work for many poor villagers.
Rides are popular and 50 tourist camps have been established, where elephants also perform tricks, even play soccer. But Trunprakan is also investing in their future.
"We're trying to make more baby elephants," he said. Breeding is done naturally, "by human management."
Gestation can take two years but early delivery is best, since male tusks develop early, he said. If a late-born calf pokes a teat too hard, "she kicks him away."
Birthing mothers are usually waited on by a female "auntie," who watches over the delivery to ensure the calf is not accidentally crushed. She also tidies.
Asian elephants can grow to 3 metres high, smaller than their African cousins, weigh 4 tonnes, daily downing about 250 kilos of food and 60 litres of water. Under ideal conditions, they can live well into their 70s.
Before our group got to ride, our giant hosts had to be washed.
Guided by handlers, or "mahouts," they were led to the river, where their thick hides were sluiced to remove dust and prevent infection plus chafing from the wide wooden seats strapped onto thick, protective pads.
Once aboard, reached from a bamboo pole platform built into the side of a hill, it took mere minutes to become acclimatized to the slow but steady pace.
Hanging onto the metal armrests, I met the swaying gait set by Baibune, a 19-year-old bull, much the same way as I walk when aboard ship or down the aisle of a moving passenger train coach.
It was glorious!
Leaning forward, my feet resting on his head as handler Nat Maebaukam instructed, I was able to keep my balance as we headed up a well-worn path on a hill.
Long-experienced, the elephants seemed to know the way. They occasionally stopped to strip a large green leaf from a banana tree or to nuzzle a companion.
Gentle and sometimes strong words of encouragement or a tap from a handler's long stick kept our mounts on track. Back at the camp, we dismounted on the platform, where extra payment was a must -- for the elephants.
For under $1, we bought clusters of small, green bananas. The elephants, who love downing the tasty treats -- skins and all -- waited patiently, their long trunks occasionally sliding forward to sniff out a tip, curling around the offerings before slipping them into their bulging mouths then settling down for a long, luxurious chew.
Heaven, for the elephants, was another bath after the bananas. Heaven, for us, was the hour-long experience.
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BOTTOMLINE
GETTING THERE
One-way flights from Bangkok are as low as $30, but book other airline budget flights to Chiang Mai well in advance. Foreign airlines also land there.
ELEPHANTS
Since my visit, Trunprakan moved about 50 km from Chiang Mai, on the Hang Dong-Samuang Rd., near Belle Villa Resort. He now offers an "Elephant trainer for a day" program, for 4,200 bhat(about $131). It includes one-on-one training with the elephant, transportation, lunch and gear. E-mail pat_theerapat@hotmail.com or call 01-9922551.
MORE INFORMATION
For more on the Chiang Mai area, see chiangmai-thai.com/elephant.htm.