St. Andrew's, N.B., is a designated National Historic District.

No beach. No water slides. No neon. No muscle cars. What kind of resort town is this? Welcome to St. Andrews, N.B., nestled by Passamaquoddy Bay, 120 km from Saint John and almost on the Maine border.

St. Andrews isn't a Grand Bend or a Wasaga Beach. It's more a Niagara-on-the-Lake, but less expensive and less crowded.

It's designated a National Historic District, 280 of its 550 mainly red brick or clapboard buildings having been constructed before 1880. Some were brought over piece by piece by Loyalists following the American Revolution. For example, the plank floors in The Windsor House, an elegant inn and restaurant, were laid in 1798.

Activities are very varied.

- Golfers will want to try the course at the historic Fairmont Algonquin hotel. It's one of only four Maritimes courses with a 4 1/2-star rating from Golf Digest's Places to Play 2004. Rates from $75-$125, depending on the season, and packages are available. Phone 1-800-441-1414 or visit fairmont.com/golfalg.

- Kingsbrae Horticultural Garden made Canadian Gardening's list of Canada's top 10 public gardens in 2000. Its 11 hectares contain more than two dozen garden areas. Guided tours are $2 per person extra and well worth it. Kingsbrae is a delight: Classical music is piped in, visitors are encouraged to walk on the grass and touch things, and there's an "edible garden" where the kids can pick berries. Call 1-866-566-8687 or visit kingsbraegarden.com.

- Sea kayaking is fun if you're in under the wing of someone like Bruce Smith, owner of Seascape Kayak Tours. He took me out on a gloriously sunny afternoon in a two-seater, called a double. Smith precedes every trip with a 30-minute lesson on boats, paddling and safety. A two-hour paddle is $45 for adults, $35 for youths 15 and under. Half-day, full-day and multi-day excursions are also available. Phone 1-866-747-1884 or visit seascapekayaktours.com.

- The courthouse, which dates to 1840, is the main stop on a 90-minute evening ghost walk that leaves from the Algonquin. Take a digital camera; you may capture "energy balls" that sometimes manifest themselves; $11 for adults, $5.50 for kids under 12.

St. Andrews has a wide range of accommodations: Motels at $60-85, double, B&Bs starting at $100, and inns that can run double that.

The Algonquin has a charming staff but my room, in the old part, was rather plain, given that high-season rates started at $209 a night.

I also liked the look of the Treadwell Inn, whose six rooms range from $145-$250, including breakfast. The latter face the bay and have a Jacuzzi and kitchenette. Call 1-800-529-1011.

For dining, The Gables has a big deck and is casual. The blankets kept on a peg for customers who get too cool outside are a nice touch.

The Windsor House, a CAA four-diamond recipient, is for the big splurger. Stilton beef tenderloin, at $38, is a signature dish. The Rossmount, just outside of town, is surprisingly reasonable, with three seafood entrees under $20. Tip for tipplers: Try the draught versions of Clancy's Amber Ale and Moosehead Ale, both brewed in Saint John.

For more info, contact 1-800-563-7397 or town.standrews.nb.ca.