A Coast Salish hunting canoe made by master caver Ray Natrall from a single piece of cedar. (Toronto Sun/Robin Robinson)

First Nations culture is not the first, second -- or even third -- thing most people associate with Whistler. Skiing, snowboarding and mountain biking spring more readily to mind when talking about the world famous British Columbia resort community.

But long before the skiers, boarders, bikers, luxury hotels and chic boutiques converged around Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains, the area was a different sort of meeting place -- a territory where mountains, rivers and people from the Coast Salish (Squamish) and Interior Salish (Lil'wat) nations came together.

Until recently, memories of that traditional meeting ground have been overshadowed by recreational developments such as the Bike Park and the Peak to Peak Gondola. But as Whistler prepared to welcome the world during the Vancouver 2010 Olympics and Paralympics, many people were looking for ways for the area's longtime residents -- people from the Squamish and Lil'wat nations -- to participate in the event, says Breton Murphy, a communications manager with Tourism Whistler.

Now, a newly opened cultural centre shines a light on the people who occupied this land long before the real estate boom turned it into one of the priciest neighbourhoods in Canada.

"Our people have lived on this land for a very long time," says Shawnna Apodaka, as she greets me at the Squamish Lil'wat Cutural Centre in Whistler's Upper Village. "Ancient Salish legends tell of a great flood ... to survive the rising waters, Squamish people tied their canoes to the peak of nearby Mt. Garibaldi."

In the Lil'wat legend, a man named Ntanenkin rescued one child from every family by taking them by canoe to the top of Split Mountain.

Part of the cultural centre team and a member of the Squamish Nation, Apodaka pauses in front of the building's massive cedar doors to give me a proper welcome with "open hands" and "from the heart."

She explains that the two nations, while distinct, share many similarities and that everyone who works at the centre learns about both cultures.

Just inside, massive hand-carved cedar spindle whorls and intricately woven cedar bark mats hang from the 7-metre-high ceiling. Soaring windows along one side of the Great Hall fill the space with sunlight and make it seem as if the entire centre flows from the mountains and forest outside.

Architect Alfred Waugh designed the three-storey wood, glass and stone complex to be a "doorway to the forest" and evoke both a Squamish longhouse and a Lil'wat Istken, or pit house, Apodaka says. The project is LEED certified and everything is accessible to the disabled. There are even rooms where elders can rest.

Built on 1.76 hectares of Crown land overlooking Lost Lake Park, the two bands received funding for the $31-million project from governments -- federal, provincial and the Resort Municipality of Whistler -- the Vancouver Organizing Committee for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, Bell Canada and RBC Financial.

Symbols are everywhere -- of high mountains and low valleys, of fish, eagles and bears, and of the Salish eye, which symbolizes that the spirits are always watching. Further in are massive canoes -- both the narrow lake craft of the Lil'wat, and a 12-metre-long Squamish hunting canoe made from a single piece of red cedar by master carver Ray Natrall, Apodaka says.

Other features include historical artifacts -- photographs, regalia, weavings, carvings, drums -- a theatre, a self-guided forest trail, a shop selling aboriginal art, jewelry and clothing, and a cafe, which serves native-inspired cuisine. The cafe menu was developed by award-winning First Nations Chef Andrew George and Executive Chef Scott Thomas Dolbee of the Four Seasons Resort Whistler. Dishes include Squamish salmon chowder, Lil'wat venison chili with fry bread and wild blueberry cobbler.

But the centre is more than a museum, Apodaka says. It's also a place for Squamish and Lil'wat people to reconnect with their ceremonies and traditional arts such as cedar bark weaving, carving, paddle making, canoeing and drumming, and for visitors to interact with First Nations people by taking part in workshops.

"We are a living culture not a museum culture. ... It has always been our tradition to evolve, and while we want to keep tradition alive, people will also see we do use power tools," Apodaka says, smiling.

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Apart from preparations for the 2010 Olympics, the other big news in town is Whistler Blackcomb's Peak to Peak Gondola, which will be ready to roll in December.

When complete, 28 sky cabins will transport riders 4.4 km between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains in 11 minutes, says Tabetha Boot, regional public relations supervisor for Whistler Blackcomb. It's the longest unsupported span (3.024 km) for a lift of this kind in the world and the only one of its kind in North America.

The gondola will make moving between the mountains almost effortless, Boot says.

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There is no shortage of luxury accommodations in Whistler but few are as homey as the mountainside Westin Resort & Spa steps from the Village Stroll and the Whistler and Blackcomb mountain gondolas.

My one-bedroom suite really was a home away from home. The balcony had wonderful mountain views and it was nice to sit outside on warm evenings. A well-equipped kitchen meant we could have breakfast before heading out each day or even cook dinner if we were so inclined.

From Tuesdays to Saturdays guests are encouraged to gather in the main lobby from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. to "transition" from day to night. There are comfortable couches and a cosy fireplace. Beverages and snacks are available.

The menu at the Aubergine Grille Restaurant features many dishes created from local ingredients. Last year, it was recognized with an award of excellence from Wine Spectator magazine.

The resort puts a special emphasis on wellness with fitness classes seven days per week, and a tranquil Avello Spa & Health Club. Of course, I had to sample the spa treatments -- a 40-minute relaxation massage followed by a Soothing Heavenly Milk Soak in a 144-jet Bouvier tub. Other spa offerings include thalassotherapy wraps, personal trainers and traditional Chinese medicine.

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BOTTOM LINE

GETTING THERE

On of the most scenic ways to arrive in Whistler is via Hwy. 99, aka the Sea To Sky Highway. Parts of the highway are under construction as more passing lanes are being added in preparation for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. Despite minor delays, it's still a spectacular drive with ocean and mountain views.

EAT, DRINK

Great places to eat in Whistler include Ciao-Thyme Bistro, Jordan's Crossing in the new boutique-style Nita Lake Lodge, Elements Urban Tapas Lounge, Trattoria di Umberto, Quattro at Whistler, The Mix by Ric's and the Garibaldi Lift Company Bar & Grill. The village is full of funky coffee shops such as Behind the Grind, Esquires and Moguls, which are great places for people watching.

MORE INFORMATION

For travel info, contact Tourism BC at hellobc.com or 1-800-435-5622, and Tourism Whistler at tourismwhistler.com or 1-877-991-9988. For details on the Westin Resort & Spa, contact westinwhistler.com or 1-888-634-5577. The Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre is open 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily year-round. Adult admission is $18. Youths 13-16, $11. Children 6-12, $8. Under 6, free. Seniors/students $13.50. Family (two adults, two children) $42. See slcc.ca.