An eager participant enjoys an icewine.

BANFF -- Far below this magnificent "castle in the Rockies" the Bow Valley spreads its wings and reveals a frosty white coat of fresh snow.

The early-morning sun hits the Spray River and the resulting splendour sends a chill up a visitor's spine. The beauty beneath and all around the Banff Springs Hotel is unmatched and unlike anything you will see anywhere else in the world.

But, darn it, why is it all I can think of on this second day of the Banff Springs Festival of Wine and Food is the 8:30 a.m. foie gras tasting I missed?

Oh, I could have been there. But the breathtaking vista from the Rundle Lounge just got the better of me.

And now (yeah, now they tell me!), they are piling out of the Aux Champs D'Elise Fois Gras tasting and demonstration from one of Canada's premier producers, Elise Francois of Quebec, and everyone has a big smile on their face.

Not only were guests treated to wonderful samples of gourmet duck liver but it was paired with Chateau d'Yquem, the world's greatest sweet wine from Sauternes, France.

This just could be the most magnificent food/wine pairing in the world and a blown chance to taste the two together was the greatest faux pas of an otherwise memorable weekend.

And what a weekend this 13th annual event was. You will not find better wines, food and setting over a weekend anywhere else on this planet.

Those who attend, most year after year, guard the weekend as their little secret. And wine producers from around the world trip over themselves to present their very best wines.

The weekend is structured around the world's best producers, regardless of country, with an added emphasis on the hotel's culinary skills.

It is a decadent, gourmet, wine aficionado's dream get-away. And with every step, through every window and out every door, nature's stunning Rocky Mountain miracle can be seen and felt. You are always in its shadow.

This year's star of the show was undoubtedly the Penfolds Grange 10-vintage vertical, the first time ever that this much of the exquisite shiraz, one of the great wines of the world and certainly Australia's finest, had been poured in Canada. We were treated to favourite vintages from 1975 to the current 1999 release.

The enlightening and engaging keeper of the mighty Grange, winemaker Peter Gago, was the weekend's busiest pourer.

He brought the battalion of Grange and in his animated style, gave a good history of this important wine while entertaining 250 of his newest friends who had paid for the privilege.

Banff Springs Hotel shown in all its winter glory.

Gago never disappoints and his pourings go well beyond his presentation of Grange. You could catch the omnipresent Aussie pouring any number of rare and popular Penfolds wines in the nooks and crannies of the castle's many rooms. Just don't get him going on cork vs. screwtop!

The weekend kicked off with an extensive icewine tasting and presentation from the co-founder of Jackson-Triggs, Allan Jackson.

The sweet power of Canada's best wine export style was an insightful beginning to a weekend saturated in wine and food.

A buffet style dinner followed but this was no ordinary buffet. Think rack of lamb paired with Coppola's Diamond Series Claret. Think wild mushroom risotto topped with seared foie gras and paired with Castello di Fronterutoli Chianti Classico. How about sauteed prawns with red curry paired with Montes Sauvigon Blanc. It was magic and all topped off with maple sugar flan and chocolate chile cake.

Following the Grange tasting on Saturday morning, thirsty guests were treated to another glorious workout, this time from Francesco Mazzei, proprietor of Castello di Fonterutoli, who led participants through a vertical of his wonderful Chianti Classicos and another vertical of his majestic Siepi.

Then it was off to the other side of the castle to meet Aurelio Montes, president and winemaker of the Montes group from Chile.

Montes is said to be the golden boy of ultra premium Chilean wines: "He's done more to raise the bar of premium wines in Chile than anyone," Tony Aspler, host of the weekend told the crowd.

Though relatively new, the Montes Alpha M wines were certainly a nice surprise. Bordeaux in style and showing wonderful structure and elegance, the M series reds are a rare treat and far beyond most wines coming out of Chile. He also poured the Montes Folly, a rich, ripe knockout syrah from the estate.

Saturday evening was reserved for food and wine (surprise, surprise!). At the grand ball room big wine after big wine met its pairing in a setting that included no less than 2,250 crystal wine glasses, seven deep at each setting and each glass containing some form of remarkable wine.

The big pairings of the evening were:

Foie gras terrine with pear Burgundy truffle served with Jackson-Triggs Riesling Ice Wine.

Lemon pierced halibut, Maine scallops, Stanley Bridge oyster and squid ink gnocchi served with the unbelievable 2001 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay.

Roasted bison tenderloin and braised veal cheek served with a) Montes Alpha M; b) Penfolds Bin 707; c) Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon.

Canadian cheeses served with Niebaum-Coppola Cask Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sleep came early that night.

And then, bright and early on Sunday, 8:30 a.m. to be precise, it was time for a lively Champagne discussion and tasting. Dominique Demarville, youngest cellar master in all of Champagne, led the tasting of his Mumm (pronounced moom, by the way) wines.

If you weren't quite awake by the time you got to this tasting, the bright, searing acidity of his various Champagne cuvees did the trick.

Demarville gave an interesting history of Champagne while leading us through non vintage and vintage Champagnes and surprised us with a rather dated Cordon Rouge from 1979 which had marvellous nuances and was still crisp and fresh.

The weekend's final moments were wrapped around what would have been an extraordinary tasting (I wish I didn't have to leave early and miss it) of Niebaum Coppola Rubicon. It was a five vintage vertical of this sensational Napa Valley estate.

The Banff weekend is like no other wine event you will experience. If you love food and wine, mountains and spas (and who doesn't) you may want to get your tickets now for next year.