Wine lovers flock to a tasting in the Eastern townships.

VIA Rail serves lunch between Brockville and Kingston, en route to Montreal, and it is obvious, even to the uneducated palate, that there is a talented French culinary hand at work here.

A round of goat cheese and marinated mushrooms to begin, then fresh halibut, capers and colourful peppers.

It's an introduction to one of Canada's finest "eating cities."

But while I pause briefly in Montreal, my ultimate destination is the more rustic and traditional Eastern Townships, which are considered the cradle of Quebec viniculture.

The Loyalists who fled to Canada during the American Revolutionary War were the first to settle in this landscape of plateaus, rolling lush mountains and a network of majestic lakes and rivers.

Before heading out to the country, we stay overnight in the boutique luxury of Place d' Armes hotel in an environment of dark wood, brushed steel and glass.

We feel privileged to dine at Aix, the hotel's restaurant, where Chef Anthony Young's menu features cuisine de terroir -- Bison, wild boar -- and also seafood such as arctic char, the ultimate regional cuisine.

The hotel is across the street from the majestic basilica where Celine Dion and Rene Angelil were wed.

We can't help but notice that the Montreal social scene literally bursts with joi de vivre and "le happy hour" is alive and well and happening in every pub, lounge and bar.

A hearty buffet breakfast in the cheerful wood and brick dining room at Hotel Nelligan, a sister property around the corner, sends us on our way.

Driving through the city, friends point out luxury condos and tell us smugly that the price would be three times as much in Toronto.

Now we're on our way to Granby/Bromont, the home of succulent Brome Lake duckling which is bred with less fat, more meat, and takes to orange and ginger sauce like a duck takes to, well ...

DREAM WEEK

Imagine Bromont, a tourism/learning program, provides young people from ages 10 to 17 with a chance to enjoy a dream week during which they learn the basics of golf, cooking (ages 12 and up) or equestrian skills taught by professionals. Fridays the students cook for parents and friends -- and in this case, for us.

Mouth-watering cuisine de terroir, like this dish of quail, will leave patrons of the Aix restaurant feeling privileged to dine there.

These are the future chefs of la belle province.

The Equestrian Institute is renowned worldwide for its method of introducing teens to the secrets of the close bond between rider and horse as well as teaching the discipline which combines art and sport.

And the golf camp for 10- to 17-year-olds, is taught by certified PGA professionals. Three weeks, three life skills. imaginebromont.ca or 877-276-6668

While apple orchards are an integral part of the landscape, one enterprising grower, Simon Naud, has an added attraction at his Vignoble de la Bauge Winery: Exotic animals with lots of space to roam.

We hop on an open tram-style vehicle and cruise through the property, sipping our ice cider. There are emu from Australia, a yak from Russia, yellow deer, red deer, wild boar and sculptures created by visiting artists. The apple orchard provides built-in snacks for all the animals.

A student bakes up a storm as part of Imagine Bromont, a tourism/learning program for youngsters.

Inside the ranch-style house, there is a tasting room where visitors can sample the cider. Legalized in Quebec in the late '90s, it has become a flourishing industry.

The apples are allowed to stay on the trees until late October, then harvested and pressed. The "must" from the pressing is taken outside to freeze, then returned inside to thaw and allowed to ferment for three months. Last year they sold 7,000 bottles -- this year 35,000.

Clearly, they're doing something right.

Micro Brasserie le BroueMont, owned by Patrick Dunnigan and Diane Moreau, utilizes nature's gifts in many unique ways. Even the most jaded beer drinker will perk up at the taste of honey raspberry beer, pumpkin beer or any one of Patrick's 27 all-natural recipes.

Alas, you can't take them with you -- their permit only allows them to brew and sell on the premises.

The Micro Brasserie BroueMont.

I arrive home carrying the gastronomic culture of Montreal in a duffle bag: St. Viatuer bagels, smoked meat from Schwartz's, honey wine, an array of apple ciders, blueberry jam, mustards, boar pate and sausages.

The fruits of the land are a great souvenir of an exciting visit to the province next door.

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BOTTOM LINE

A child admires llamas at Vignoble de la Bauge Winery.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

- Le Places d'Armes, 701 Cote de la Place d'Armes, Montreal, PQ H2Y 2X6, 514-842-1887.

- Hotel Nelligan, 106 Saint-Paul Street W., Montreal, PQ H2Y 1Z3, 514-788-2040

GOOD EATS:

- Microbrasserie Le Brouemont/Brouemont Microbrewery, 107, boulevard De Bromont, Bromont, PQ J2L 2K7, 450-534-0001

- Vignoble de la Bauge - Winery,155, rue des Erables, Brigham, PQ, J2K 4E1, 450-266-2149, labauge.com.