By
Stephen Johnson, special to Canoe Travel
I had a chance to test my nautical abilities on a recent trip to the Magdalen Islands. The Magdalens are an archipelago of twelve islands situated in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. The population is mainly Francophone with a small Anglophone minority. My wife and I wanted to explore Entry Island where the bulk of the Anglophone minority lives. It’s not possible to take a car to the island and the ferry boat only makes the trip twice a day. We decided to take a charter boat that offers more frequent excursions. I was concerned when I met our tour leader and ship captain, Steeve Boudreau. He seemed like a friendly enough person, but had a close resemblance to race car driver Jacques Villeneuve. I also had some concerns with our boat. I was expecting a large robust ship that could cut through ice and endure storms. Instead, I was greeted by a small zodiac that brought back childhood memories of playing with toys in the bathtub. It seemed as though Steeve could sense my fear and tried to put me at ease explaining all the safety features of the zodiac. He wore shorts and flip-flops while we were instructed to put on wetsuits and life jackets. I quickly rushed to what I considered to be the safest part of the zodiac pushing aside a fellow passenger. We started our trip from Cap-Aux-Meules harbour. Steeve mentioned the trip would take about an hour and that the waters were particularly calm. I was still white-knuckled as we encountered our first minor waves. I blame my aversion to ocean travel on growing up in Moose Jaw, Sask. When a person is surrounded by wheat fields and the nearest ocean is a couple of time zones away, spending time in a boat is not an obvious choice. I started to gain confidence as we encountered larger waves. Steeve handled them with ease and explained the long maritime tradition on the Magdalen Islands. Any fear or trepidation was replaced with awe as we approached Entry Island. Red cliffs and a single large green hill seemed to appear out of nowhere. We were also greeted by thousands of penguins and seagulls who come to Entry Island to breed during the summer. Steeve also warned us to cover our heads as the birds sometimes deliver unwanted offerings from the sky. Entry Island has approximately a hundred residents with practically everyone being Anglophone. The island was first settled in the 1580’s by settlers from Scotland and Ireland. Many of the residents can trace back their family history three to four hundred years. Fishing and farming are still the main economic activities. There is only one school with a ratio of about one teacher to four students. The ferry runs twice daily from May to December and is replaced by a plane service in the wintertime. Residents stock up on food supplies in November to prepare for the winter months. When our zodiac finally docked, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I wondered what the residents would be like, considering they lived an isolated existence. I met Bryan Josey, proprietor of the only bar and general store on the island, who offered a unique perspective on island life. “People might think we lead a backward life. Many of the residents frequently travel to other countries. Our young people also go away to be educated but often return to work on the island. I have traveled to many different countries but would not want to leave Entry Island. Sometimes tourists ask how we can live in such an isolated place but I wonder how someone could live in Toronto or New York City.” After the interesting discussion with Josey, our group made our way towards the most significant geographical feature on the island aptly named “Big Hill.” The hill serves as a community pasture to cows and horses. Steeve mentioned that a few cows are lost every year from grazing too close to the cliffs and falling off the edge. Upon reaching the summit, I could see why Steeve brings all tourists to Big Hill. One side of the island was shrouded in a mist. In the other direction, it was possible to see sea birds attempting to find their lunch. The moment was perfect except for the odd cow trying to eat our trail mix. After spending a refreshing hour at the summit, we gradually made our way down the hill towards our zodiac. We passed by the one church, town office and school but did not see any police station. We also saw many all-terrain vehicles, the main mode of transport. When we arrived at the docks, I met fisherman Mark Maclean who was busy cleaning his boat curiously named Catherine Courtney. “Typically, we head out at 5 a.m. and return around 2 or 3 in the afternoon,” he said of life on the ocean. “I mainly catch lobster and tuna. It is a lot of work but is a nice life.” Maclean also quietly stated he had once caught a tuna weighing 970 lbs. I thought it was another fisherman’s tall tale until he produced the photographic evidence. It was obvious the photo had not been digitally doctored and that he was telling the truth. I thought Maclean’s tale summarized Entry Island. From afar, the island looked understated and somewhat plain, but it’s very possible to meet intriguing people and see stunning scenery. If you go: There are a number of different companies offering trips to Entry Island. My wife and I went with a company called Excursions en mer (www.excursionsenmer.com) and were happy with the experience. You can also find out more about the Entry Island and the Magdalen Islands by visiting www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com. This story was posted on Fri, January 11, 2008 More HeadlinesOld world charm of Quebec CityCelebrating food in Montreal Big year for Quebec's Carnival Mont-Tremblant for all seasons Igloofest returns to Montreal |
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