Writer Mike Ross stands on the path to a partially excavated Mayan ruin site in Belize. (SUN)

BELIZE -- An hour in any direction takes you from dense jungles dotted with Mayan ruins to mysterious caves to palm-speckled beaches to mountain pine forests to deserted islands on the second-largest coral reef in the world. Belize seems too good to be true - as if it's been manufactured to be the perfect eco-tourist playground.

If you tell friends you're going on vacation in Belize, the first thing you're likely to hear is, "Where the heck is Belize?" You explain (having already done your research) that it used to be called the British Honduras, that it was a British colony until it won its independence in 1981 (despite continued grumbling from nearby Guatemala) yet they drive on the right, which is to say correct, side of the road. English is the official language. Call it the Massachusetts of the Caribbean and you'll get blank stares.

Ah, the joys of a holiday in a secret tropical paradise.

Not for long. Belize is becoming the No. 1 "undiscovered" gem in Central America. In other words, hello, Holiday Inn. Even before Temptation Island was shot there, tourism was increasing dramatically. The country is filled with young couples testing their own relationships. I was surprised at how many Canadians we met, some of whom had "chucked it all" to live in Belize. It's tempting.

There are plenty of places in Belize that haven't been overrun by tourists - and indeed haven't seen a human footprint in hundreds of years. For a sense of freedom, adventure and the satisfaction of blowing hard-earned money, rent a car, preferably a four-wheel-drive since many of the more interesting roads range from lousy to really lousy. And that's during the dry season.

My wife and I tried to do it all in two weeks. Here are the highlights:

The Belize Zoo: One of the coolest zoos I've ever seen - generous habitats for the local wildlife, educational and fun. Sample sign: "I am Scotty the Tapir, I'm handsome, no, true? But better step back 'cause I might pee on you." A good place to start, it may be the only place you'll see the elusive, nocturnal jaguar, the indigenous wild cat of Belize.

Macal River Jungle Camp (near San Ignacio): Nothing like imagining you're "roughing it" when a hot shower is only a short walk down the path. Slept in a tiny hut, ate great meals of traditional rice and beans prepared by the Mayan family that runs the camp, encountered a scorpion in the sink and realized that wild roosters don't crow at dawn. They crow whenever they feel like it. Wild parrots are noisy, too. Spent nights hiking jungle paths looking for jaguars. Saw only wolf spiders.

Crystal Cave Tour (out of San Ignacio): A guided tour of the recently opened Cave of the Crystal Tomb (as seen in a National Geographic special), an ancient Mayan spiritual site. An hour of wading through an underground stream and climbing through a pitch-black labyrinth of stone brought us through a clutter of artifacts and the climax of the expedition - the remains of a 20-year-old girl sacrificed and dumped in the cave more than 1,000 years ago.

Placencia: Plenty of Americans have "chucked it all" to live in this Bohemian town. It's basically one big beach located at the end of a narrow peninsula in southern Belize. Not much to do all day except lay in a hammock under a palm tree while drinking Belikin, Belize's national beer. It tastes like Pilsner.

Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary: More than 100,000 acres of tropical forest framed by mountains on three sides. Great jungle hiking. Didn't see any jaguars, but lots of birds and busy leaf-cutter ants. Warned about the deadly fer-de-lance snake. A helpful rhyme to remember: "Red and yellow, you're an unlucky fellow."

Chan Chich Lodge: This posh resort in the middle of the western jungle is built in the middle of unexcavated Mayan ruins. It's surreal to sit by the pool sipping a Belikin while watching spider monkeys play in the jungle canopy over what might have once been an ancient tomb. Took another night hike, this time armed with powerful flashlights, determined to see a jaguar. No luck.

Ricardo's Beach Huts: A little-known "resort" located on one of numerous islands dotting the emerald waters off the coast. It's not the end of the earth, but you can see it from there. Accommodations consist of shacks on stilts above the water. Meals are prepared by Finn, an old Norwegian sailor who hasn't had shore leave in quite some time. Spent days snorkelling, drinking and playing with the island's two resident dogs, Puma and Nanook.

Caye Caulker: Ambergris Caye ("key") is the top tourist destination in Belize - if you're into staging your own version of Temptation Island. Caye Caulker is best described as the "alternative." You've got to love a place where you never have to wear shoes. Days spent snorkelling at the nearby coral reef. Nights spent drinking Belikin and eating fresh red snapper. See 'em, then eat 'em.

Never saw a jaguar in the wild, though. Maybe that was a good thing. We never thought far enough ahead to figure out what we'd do if we did see one.

If you go:

BELIZE FACTS:

Geography: Located between Guatemala and Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. Divided into five districts: Northern Belize, Southern Belize, Western Belize, the Cayo District and the Cayes (islands). Each has its own landscape, wildlife and weather.

CLIMATE: Hot. Hot and rainy in the summer, hot and dry in the winter. Wear a hat. Bring sunscreen.

PESTS: Mosquitoes in the jungle are feared much less than sand flies at the beach - invisible, vicious little varmints that seem to consider insect repellent a spice. Thank God for a windy day.

LANGUAGE: English is the official language, but Spanish and Creole are common.

MONEY: Two Belize dollars equal one U.S. dollar. Most merchants accept both.

CRIME: Aside from Belize City, a busy Casablanca-like town where it's not advised to wander around at night, Belize is safe for tourists.

GETTING IN: A valid passport is all that's needed.

GETTING THERE: Continental Airlines offers two daily flights from Houston, with good connections to Calgary. Round-trip fare is about $800 Cdn.

INFORMATION: Hidden Belize and The New Key To Belize are two of the best books on the country. Also try belizenet.com and travelbelize.org on the Internet.