Pensive capuchin monkeys -- Photos by pix2go.ca

Here was one trip for the birds ... and the sloths ... and the monkeys and iguanas, too. Costa Rica's diversity of wildlife beckoned, and my wife, Tania, and I answered the call with a two-week exploration of this lush Neotropical paradise.

Imagine, this 51,100-sqare-km Central American nation (about two-thirds the size of Scotland) lays claim to 850 of the nearly 10,000 known bird species in the world.

We managed to see and/or photograph around 90 different birds and are planning a return trip to add more.

This time, we explored three areas:

JACO: What better way to cap off a day's bird-watching in humid forests than by taking in a spectacular sunset as a cooling breeze washes over you from the Pacific?

Top spots visited on this leg of the trip were Manuel Antonio National Park, where we were treated to the antics of a band of white-faced capuchin monkeys; Carara National Park, which we entered under the watchful eye of a black-headed vulture, a "jungle crocodile tour" of the Rio Grande de Tarcoles (ranchoropendola.com), rich in shorebirds and Great Black Hawks -- and crocodiles; a rain forest aerial tour (rainforesttram.com), under the expert eye of guide Johan Fernandez.

LIMON: We dubbed the sloth "Captain America" because he looked to be riding a chopper as he surveyed the area for his next meal.

The sloth was in a tree just outside our thatched cliff-side bungalow at the Club Maribu Caribe outside Limon on the Atlantic coast. He was there for the duration of our stay and, given the lifestyle habits of the species, is likely still in that same tree.

Highly recommended if you're in the Limon area is a trip up the Canal de Tortuguero which, for the truly adventurous, will take you all the way to Nicaragua.

We opted for less lengthy rides, hiring local boat owner Ariel Nunez (you can arrange a tour with him through your hotel) for two excursions of about five hours each.

Along the route, which takes you on interconnecting rivers and close to several points where the Caribbean breaks through, you are treated to wondrous scenery as well as colourful birds, Jesus Christ lizards, howler and spider monkeys, full-size crocs and their smaller cousins, the caiman crocodile.

Also check out nearby Cahuita National Park and the Aviarios del Caribe (Ogphoto.com/aviarios), which has gained a worldwide reputation as a leading sloth sanctuary.

CIUDAD QUESADA: "It's raining ... again." After 10 days of (mostly) sunshine and clear days, our time in the north was on the wet side.

It was supposed to be Costa Rica's "dry" season (Dec.-April) but we are, after all, in rain forest country. But the clouds broke long enough for us to enjoy the hot springs next to our hotel, El Tucano Resort & Thermal Spa, near Ciudad Quesada.

A jaguar keeps watch at Jardin Zoo la Marina.

Hotel guests pay $5 US per half hour of hot springs treatment while, just up the road at Aguas Termales de la Marina, you pay $2 each to soak all day.

Also close by is the Jardin Zoo la Marina in Aguas Zarcas, home to a colony of spider monkeys, scarlet macaws, a jaguar, caged exotic birds and other species which fly by and settle down for a look-see.

Take a side trip to Arenal Volcano (hope for a clear day) and the nearby Arenal Hanging Bridges (hangingbridges.com).

Also worth a visit is the Arenal Observatory Lodge, which offers a magnificent view from its perch on a ridge about 2 km from the volcano.

Stop for lunch in the observatory's restaurant and watch the show as colourful birds stop by for a nibble of fresh fruit left by staff.

Taking in the hot springs at Aguas Termales.

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BOTTOM LINE

- Birding in your plans? Pick up A Guide To The Birds Of Costa Rica, by F. Gary Stiles and Alexander F. Skutch. It's the best reference for the area and carried by all the tour guides.

- It would be helpful if you spoke at least a smattering of Spanish. (We didn't, but by the time our trip was over, we could order meals and ask for directions.)

One of our most pleasant experiences was on our drive from Limon north to Ciudad Quesada, when we stopped at the little town of Chilamate for breakfast at Restaurante La Rana Roja (Red Frog).

An anhinga dries his wings

We spoke almost no Spanish and owner Ligia Vargas spoke no English. When she noticed us photographing hummingbirds outside the restaurant, she communicated that we should go with her to her father's ranch behind the restaurant for more birds.

The three of us set out, chattering in English and Spanish and not really knowing what was being said. We spotted several species of birds we hadn't yet seen and Ligia then treated us to fresh coconut milk and a big hug farewell.

- Think about renting a car. It allows you better freedom of movement than signing up for excursions and sidetrips which might get cancelled due to weather.

We booked a car online through Budget (budget.ca) and had no problems with pick-up in Jaco or drop-off in San Jose.

Sunset at Jaco

Driving in Costa Rica is an experience -- road signs are sometimes confusing and street signs are a rarity. Many directions are given based on landmarks.

Get a good road map -- and try to ignore the vultures circling overhead as you negotiate serpentine mountain roads!

- For more information check out visitcostarica.com