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Destination: KONSTANZ, Germany
A blooming delight
History, scenery, brauhauses enthrall visitors to Lake Constance
By MAXINE AND PAUL KNOWLES -- Special to Sun Media
"THIS," we decided. "Is the best beer in the world." We were enjoying the fine product of the "Joh. Albrecht Brauhaus," in the Old Town in Constance, Germany. And maybe it is the best beer in the world, or maybe it just tasted that way because everything about the Constance region is a delight. The town is rich in history. The lake is beautiful. The islands are unique and intriguing. The food is good. The local wine is excellent and the beer better. The people are friendly and welcoming. We were seduced unawares, and we didn't want to leave. First, let's get the nomenclature right. Constance is also spelled Konstanz. It's a historic southern German city on the shore of Lake Constance, also called the Bodensee. A trip around Lake Constance -- a popular bicycle tour -- takes you through three countries: Germany, Switzerland and Austria. But that's for another time. We found plenty in the German region to entertain us; in fact, to utterly enthrall us. In Constance, we stayed in the Steigenberger Inselhotel. When we walked out the front door, we were 30 seconds from the point where the Rhein River flows out of Lake Constance. Standing on the south bank, with the Rhein on our right, we could look past a medieval tower into the old town of Constance, named for fourth-century Roman Emperor Constantine. Its streets are deep with history. Here, Romans marched and Popes were chosen. This is the town of the 15th century Council of Constance, a three-year church gathering called to decide between three churchmen, each claiming to be the legitimate Pope. The town was filled not only with clerics, noblemen and their attendants (estimated at 50,000 in all), but with thousands of prostitutes imported to meet the needs of the convention-goers. The more things change ... Turning our backs on such debauchery, we could look out on the Lake, where White Fleet ferries sail to nearby villages like Meersburg, and intriguing islands like Mainau and Reichenau. We visited all of these. But first, back to the hotel. We were surprised to check in and find the route to our room led through what appeared to be cloisters. We later learned it had, indeed, been a Dominican monastery. It had subsequently been home to the inventor of the Zeppelin.
The cloister walls were decorated with relatively modern murals depicting the history of the property and the city, but on the walls of the ballroom, are well-preserved authentic medieval chapel paintings from the time of the monks. This kind of historic confluence proved an excellent preview to the attractions of Constance and area. In its earliest days, Constance was a Roman fort. Present-day excavations at the local basilica church, the Romanesque-Gothic Minster of Our Lady, are revealing extensive Roman ruins. Much more is preserved of the medieval Constance -- walls dating back to the 13th century and highly decorated houses still showing their origins as towers in that wall. Preserved in the crypt of the church are huge, golden medallions that once adorned the facing of the church, shining in the sunlight as beacons to boats on the lake. Replicas still shine today from the exterior walls. Many houses in the Old Town -- the "Niederburg" -- have been carefully restored, and bear artwork or bas relief sculptures denoting their historic origins. The narrow, winding streets, half-timbered houses, alcoves, courtyards and alleyways all have an intensely ancient ambience. Many buildings, including the ornate, turreted Town Hall, are decorated with bright, complex murals. But this is no museum -- the Old Town is filled with shops and restaurants and brauhauses selling the best beer in the world -- or did we mention that? Constance is clearly a community with a sense of humour. A modern fountain in the Old Town includes a lifesize horse that pees water on unsuspecting visitors. That same fountain features odd creatures that are half rabbit, half fish -- a local mascot, reflecting the "rabbit-eared" shape of this end of Lake Constance.
Only a block or two from the Niederburg is Constance Harbour. Here, humour again meets history in the enormous, revolving statue of Imperia. This modern work, by Peter Lenk, recalls the Council of Constance -- for the lady holds a king and a churchman, one in each hand; and she happens to be largely naked, a tribute to those thousands of "working girls" who came to the city at the time of the Council. Throughout the warmer seasons, the harbour serves the White Fleet. These ferries stop at many intriguing destinations, including Mainau and Meersburg. Meersburg was put on the map by the Prince Bishops of Constance, in the 18th century. The politics of the Reformation period saw Constance shift religious allegiances, and thus the Bishop moved to Meersburg. This small town is therefore well supplied with prestigious historic buildings, including the bishop's palace (with an ornate chapel behind a plain facade). There is also Meersburg Castle, the oldest residential castle in Germany, open for tours; and an intriguing wine museum. Meersburg is in wine country, and there are fine walks through vineyards. Perhaps our favourite destination on Lake Constance is the island of Mainau. Once the property of the Order of Teutonic Knights, it is now owned -- somewhat incongruously -- by a Swedish Count and his family. The restaurant thus includes "Swedish meatballs" among its "local specialities." The entire 45-hectare island of Mainau is a garden. And what a garden! From the formal Italian rose gardens to the Mediterranean terraces, from the butterfly conservatory to the rhododendron paths, it is amazing.
But not without effort. Many plants are annuals, or "plunged" plants, like fuchsias, protected in glasshouses in winter. The breathtaking rhododendrons are only possible because tonnes of topsoil were removed, to be replaced by more acidic, rhodo-friendly soil. This intensive horticulture produces an island of unbelievable colour and beauty. The other ear of the Lake Constance rabbit also holds an island treat. Following the Rhein west from Constance, where the waterway briefly re-opens out to lake size, you find Reichenau Island, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Perhaps the motto of Reichenau should be "saints and salads," because it is best known for market gardens, and for three historic churches. The island is also a walker's and bicyclist's paradise, with routes near the churches, through the fields and villages, and -- should hunger strike -- past many vegetable stalls. The churches include St. George's, where important 13th century murals adorn the walls; St. Peter and Paul, from the 12th century; and the large Minster of St. Mary and St. Mark. This was formerly a Benedictine abbey, and was once home to relics that attracted pilgrims from across Europe; it's still the site of impressive church processional parades.
Visitors will enjoy approaching the church from the rear, through the monastic herb garden. It seems vegetables and churches are not unrelated -- the monks developed the "rich meadow" -- or "reiche Au" -- to produce the first vegetable crops. A walk across Reichenau is a very relaxing pastime. In fact, the entire stay in the Lake Constance area of southern Germany was relaxing, enriching, and more than a bit addictive. There is so much to experience, so many levels of history to explore, so many garden benches to rest on. And did we mention the Joh. Albrecht Brauhaus beer?
BOTTOM LINE GETTING THERE: Constance is easily accessible by train or car from Zurich, Switzerland, as well as from other points in Germany. Currency is the euro. MORE INFORMATION: Visit the Canadian Germany National Tourism Office at germanchamber.ca/english/gnto.html.
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