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May 1, 2006
Go on, Express yourself
By BILL BROOKS -- Sun Media
Never underestimate the power of a book. Or a movie either. The most notable train in the world -- the Orient-Express -- owes much of its fame to Agatha Christie's 1934 novel Murder on the Orient Express. And the 1974 Oscar-winning movie of the same title ensured the luxurious train will go down in history as the most recognizable train on Earth. Yet the Orient-Express -- brainchild of wealthy Belgian banker Georges Nagelmackers -- has been transporting passengers in the lap of luxury since its inaugural run Oct. 4, 1883. But time, wars and the advent of air travel made for some troubled times for this famed traveller. Gradually, however, camouflaged cars were retrieved from all over Europe to be restored, and the Orient-Express was resurrected. The inaugural run of the "new" VSOE on May 25, 1982, caused a media frenzy the likes of which has not been seen since the wedding of Prince Charles to Lady Diana Spencer. The famous, titled and rich gathered for the auspicious occasion. Notables the likes of Sir Peter Parker, Chairman of British Rail and his wife Lady Parker, Liza Minnelli, The Duchess of Westminster, Princess Esra Jah and Lady Denise Kilmarnock -- to name but a few -- were all passengers. Today, the VSOE runs from March through November with routes as varied as London to Venice; Venice to Rome; Venice to Prague, Paris and London; Paris to Budapest, Bucharest and Istanbul; and Istanbul to Budapest, Bucharest and Venice. A recent once-in-a lifetime opportunity to travel on the VSOE from London to Venice and then on to Rome was an experience unlike any other. We boarded gleaming traditional '20s and '30s Pullman day trains at London's Victoria Station, which departed at precisely 11:10 a.m., just as the brochure indicated we would. An exquisite lunch -- with wines and champagne served by perfectly groomed waiters -- proved the perfect way to pass the time en route to Folkstone, where passengers board luxury motor coaches for crossing the Channel through the Eurotunnel. The train carriages are beautifully restored and feature outstanding marquetry, priceless Lalique panels, brass detailing, Art Deco lamps, period upholstering and an on-board staff of 40 -- including French chefs, Italian waiters and English, French and Italian compartment stewards. Compartments are small and -- surprisingly -- lack toilets, or "water closets," which are located at either end of each sleeping car. Compartments do have cleverly disguised wash basins, hot and cold water, towels, bottled water, VSOE toiletries, VSOE robe and slippers and VSOE writing paper to write about your trek. Internet, television and the like are thankfully nowhere to be found as the VSOE is all about luxurious travel from a forgotten era. And with three restaurant cars and a bar car -- with baby grand piano -- the on-board experience almost surpasses the spectacular scenery streaming by. There are two dinner seatings and, unless you are getting off in Paris, opt for the later seating. This ensures you can wine and dine at your leisure and enjoy the VSOE experience to its fullest. "You can never overdress on the Orient-Express" is an oft-used expression. Suit and tie are the minimum suggested for men and ladies should pull out all the stops. A couple opposite us chose to go the casual route and were met with disapproving glares from staff and passengers alike. A sumptuous meal followed by drinks in the bar car was the perfect way to finish off an exhilarating day. You will not, however, remember the VSOE for the best sleep of your life. The train does pitch and lurch and sleeping is a bit of a challenge. Nevertheless, when you wake up the next morning in the Swiss Alps, sleep deprivation is quickly forgotten. The VSOE experience is a must for anyone who enjoys luxury travel. Certainly the book and movie made her famous, but they don't do this most glorious of trains justice. --- FAST FACTS - The Venice Simplon Orient-Express (VSOE) consists of 17 carriages and has a capacity of 190 passengers. - There are 14 single cabins, 88 double cabins, three restaurants, a bar car and an on-board Collection VSOE Boutique. - No TV, fax, Internet or radio. - It runs from March through November with routes as varied as London to Venice; Venice to Rome; Venice to Prague, Paris and London; Paris to Budapest, Bucharest and Istanbul; and Istanbul to Budapest, Bucharest and Venice. - Prices start at $2,500 US per person, based on double occupancy. - Meals are included in the fare, alcohol is not. - You can never overdress. - Inquiries and bookings can be made by logging on to orient-express.com.
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