A couple strolls along a promenade by the Vitava River in Prague with the opulent National Theatre in the background. (Pam Davies/QMI Agency)

PRAGUE -- Shedding decades of oppression, the Czech Republic has undergone a brilliant renaissance since the fall of Communism 21 years ago.

Almost frozen in time like Sleeping Beauty, its capital city has re-emerged almost unscathed from the war years, and today -- with its face scrubbed -- a refurbished Prague is bursting with pride.

This pride is evident even in the oddest of places, including a cooking school.

Affiliated with the Prague Culinary Institute, chef Roman Vanek sheds light on how the heart of the Czech people -- their passions, vital culture and traditions symbolized by their food culture -- survived stagnation during the Communist years. Since regaining independence, there has been a revival of traditional cuisine.

Vanek says while it's easy to find classic recipes on the internet, it's the culinary techniques taught at the institute that are most important in this country of sauces and dumplings. And you'd miss a fun and entertaining few hours during which cooking talents are helped along by few sips of Slivovice, a Moravian plum brandy.

"Here we use the lard for the flavour," chef Vaclav Fric says.

We watch, almost gagging, as classic dishes are prepared with liberal amounts of beef, pig and duck lard (our charming chef assured us duck has no cholesterol) added casually and regularly.

Despite our Western low-fat mantra spinning out of control, there is no denying it, whether it's the lard or not, traditional Czech cuisine is exceptional.

Fric's signature dish, and his choice for guests, is roasted duck with red cabbage and potato dumpling.

My favourite was simple and tangy Kulajda, or Lost Egg Soup.

Add a Pilsner Urquell and the meal is complete.

Whenever I told people about my upcoming visit to Prague, without fail all praised its unblemished beauty, labelling it Europe's most magnificent city. Now I'm the one extolling the magnetism of this opulent, unspoiled city.

Enriched by street after street of grandeur, it seems everything was built for royalty -- from apartment buildings with curved intricate balconies to ancient structures such as Prague Castle -- a magnificent, mini village begun in 870 -- to the Charles Bridge, built in 1357 for the country's most beloved king, Charles IV.

We took an evening stroll over this piece of history past its grand baroque statues spaced along its promenade, lit only by moonlight.

Sensing the essence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in this cultural capital of opera, concert halls, theatres and museums, compels you to dress in deference to its majestic splendour. But leave your high heels at home as cobblestones adorn every walking surface.

Prague's past is condensed into walkable strolls. It's an architectural rush that mixes beautifully from art nouveau, such as Lucerna Arcade, to 19th century Wenceslas Square, where anti-communist uprisings took place. Within minutes of this grand promenade of shops, cafes and restaurants, is the Powder Tower -- the Gothic city gate, which separates New Town (just not as old as Old Town) and Old Town. Follow the crowd for a short distance and you'll see the Old Town Square's Gothic astronomical clock in action on the hour (the best view is from the top of the U Prince Hotel). The oldest part of this 600-year-old clock dates to 1410.

The grandeur never stops. Even the main train station is an art nouveau gem.

I can recall very few new buildings but one that stands out is The Dancing House, a cheeky Frank Gehry creation that mimics Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Kitty-corner to that, you can indulge in exquisite dining with a priceless view on the Vltava River onboard the Botel Matylda.

At Municipal House, another splendid example of art nouveau, we ate at its sidewalk cafe, ogling the beauty in our midst before visiting an exceptional Alphonse Mucha exhibit there.

Born in 1860, the Czech artist was a passionate nationalist, who once stated: "I prefer being a picture-maker for ordinary people, rather than becoming a maker of Art for Art's Sake." There is also a Mucha Museum in Prague.

Our guide -- Georgina Vokrouhlikova from Prague Europe Tours -- said she didn't learn anything about renowned author and Prague native Franz Kafka when she was growing up during the Communist regime. But there is a Kafka Museum in Prague and the author is buried in the Jewish Quarter.

Prague's Jewish population was once the largest in Europe and the remarkable Old Jewish Cemetery dates back to the 15th century. Fortunately city's historic synagogues survived both wartime occupation by the Nazis -- who planned to turn them into museums -- and the Communist regime.

If you go to Prague

MORE INFORMATION

-- For details on the Prague Culinary Institute, see czechspecials.com or prakul.cz (in Czech only)

-- For general travel information on the Czech Republic, see czechtourism.com. For Prague, see prague-info.cz.

GETTING THERE, GETTING AROUND

-- We found an afternoon tour with guide Georgina Vokrouhlikova from Prague Europe Tours was helpful and practical. For details, e-mail jovoko@mymail.cz.

-- There are no direct flights to Prague from Toronto. We flew from Toronto to Paris with Air France, where we connected to an onward flight to Prague. For details, see airfrance.ca. Canadians do not require visas to visit Prague.

-- Their city has a convenient subway and tram system.

ACCOMMODATION

Besides the very modern Andel's Hotel Prague (andelshotel.com/cs/home/) to quaint Hotel 16 (hotel16.cz), there are many hotels located within walking distance to the city's main attractions.

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I first toured this magnificent Old World city in a whirlwind, with a group of professional women sussing out Prague as a destination for clients.

You can't see Prague like that. Later when I was joined by my sisters -- Kerry and Jenny -- we devoured the place from morning 'til our feet ached and we still hadn't seen all of what we'd planned. With, of course, some shopping on the agenda, we each came home with Czech garnet rings and special Prague mementoes such as crystal, amber and pieces made from the renowned lead-free Moser glass.

While standing on the steps of the National Museum (built in 1890) and looking down on Wenceslas Square, Kerry's comment summed up the moment:

"We're walking where people of the Austro-Hungarian empire walked, where Nazis and Communists have stood."

When we entered the museum just after 6 p.m., the door was still open and Vivaldi was in the air, played at the top of a grand staircase by a handful of musicians. It was an intimate, rehearsal performance with no audience except for the older woman seated at a desk with a handwritten "tickets" sign. Because we were unable to stay for the concert, her sweet demeanour quickly turned officious and she shooed us out as if we were riff raff. A remnant of the Soviet era perhaps?

But it didn't spoil the moment and leaving down those same steps, we laughed.

Day excursion

While Prague is enough to blow you away, those who don't venture beyond the city miss a rolling pastoral countryside strewn with miniature villages and untouched centuries-old beauty located only minutes away.

Forty kilometres from Prague is Konopiste Castle, the last residence of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, whose assassination sparked World War 1. The bullet that killed him on June 28, 1914, is on display.

The family's presence haunts the castle profoundly and can be felt in every room among the endless trophy antlers, glamorous weapons and telling portraits. Nestled in its rustic setting, it seems the sole inhabitant now is a lazy old bear who lives on the grounds.

But our day was still unfolding. We were on a mission, seeking another castle -- an illusive one the small town of Svetla, also near Prague. My sister Kerry has a friend whose family once owned a castle that is now a school. The family left all of their property and possessions behind when they fled before World War II, including artworks that are now in several museums in Prague.

Everything was lost but -- like many Czech families -- they are now reclaiming some of their confiscated belongings. But because the artworks, considered national treasures, cannot leave the country, the family is being compensated.

After winding our way along rural roads and past silent villages, not passing a soul en route, we were shocked when our destination turned out to be the liveliest place around.

Svetla's fall fair was underway with rides, a midway, locally made fresh cider and carnival foods, Czech style. It was surreal, like an Orson Welles film noir.

With the festive carnival clatter and neon lights as a backdrop, by nightfall we found the castle and took photos in the dark. It was bizarre, eerie, exciting.

Now that's a memento.