CANOE Network TRAVEL
June 22, 2005
Man of La Mancha rides again
By DIANE SLAWYCH -- Special to Sun Media

A statue of Don Quixote stands in front of the Cathedral in Cuenca. -- Photos courtesy of Tourist Office of Spain

Don Quixote never looked so hip -- seated on a bench on Calle Mayor in his armour attire, he's sporting a new pair of sunglasses.

Not that he had much of a say in the choice of accessories. A group of giggling school children placed the shades on the errant knight and are now gathering around the bronze statue to pose for photographs.

Miguel de Cervantes would have been pleased. When he wrote Don Quixote de la Mancha, published in 1605, it sold well in several countries, but received little attention in Spain and was forgotten for a time. Never mind that its author was born here or that the adventures of the fictional Quixote are set on the plains of central Spain.

This year however, on the 400th anniversary of the book's publication, few visitors will leave the country without encountering the endearing hero in one guise or another. Spain is playing host to many Quixote-inspired art exhibits and tours, while Cervantes-related sites are busier than ever.

In Cuenca, for example, about a dozen whimsical Quixote sculptures by different artists grace the old city's Plaza Mayor, attracting admirers.

Elsewhere, many of Spain's paradors (upscale state-run lodging) are distributing copies of Don Quixote de la Mancha in their rooms; the hotel's magazine Parador devotes its entire spring issue to all-things Quixote.


Why all the fuss over a book, you may wonder. It's no average tome, according to experts. Some consider it the first modern novel, others says it's the world's first best selling novel. According to the Rough Guide to Spain, Don Quixote has been "reprinted so often that worldwide, it is second only to the Bible in the printing stakes."

In 2002, when the Norwegian Book Clubs asked 100 prominent authors to nominate 10 best books in world literature, Don Quixote was the first choice of the authors polled. The story revolves around a country gentleman, obsessed with books of chivalry, who dons a suit of armour and embarks on an adventure to redress all manner of wrongs.

ALCALA DE HENARES

There is perhaps no town more typical of La Mancha, than Alcala de Henares. When we arrive, the mayor is busy escorting government officials from Madrid through a new Quixote exhibit at the Capilla del Oidor, which also contains the font where Cervantes was baptized.

Not far away on Calle Mayor -- "the longest arcaded street in Spain" -- school kids on class trips seem to be everywhere. "It's not usually so busy here," says our guide, as we enter the house where Cervantes was born. "But this year is the big anniversary."

Cervantes was born in 1547 on either Sept. 29 or Oct. 9, no one is sure, though it is fairly certain he died on the same day as Shakespeare, April 23, 1616. The author spent at least the first four years of his life in the old Jewish Quarter in a red-brick home, which is now a museum.

Inside is a courtyard, the original well and rooms furnished to resemble the home of a 16th-century family. Cervantes' father toiled here as a poor barber and dentist, and was forced to move often to look for work. Two rooms on the second floor display a collection of Cervantes' works including copies of Don Quixote in more than 50 languages.

Alcala has planned more than 100 events this year to mark the anniversary. A new program is issued every three months listing upcoming events.

Even the Hosteria del Estudiante (a school for chefs) has found a way to take part by presenting a Quixote-inspired menu.

"We have recovered dishes mentioned in the novel, adapted to the 21st century, but using the documented ingredients available at the time," said head chef Julian Martin Bermejo. The Hosteria is so popular, reservations have to be made far in advance.

One unique way to get to Alcala is on the "Cervantes Train" from Madrid. Actors entertain passengers who are served traditional pastries. The train runs from April to July and September to December.

But you don't have to be interested in Cervantes or Quixote to enjoy Alcala. The city of 190,000 inhabitants contains 465 historically or architecturally significant buildings.

It's a UNESCO World Heritage City, considered the "first model university town of the Modern Age." Alcala's university is certainly stunning.

It's also known for the many important writers who have studied there. Surprisingly, Cervantes was not one of them, yet for many he remains the genius of Spain's Golden Age of literature.

For more, contact the Tourist Office of Spain at 416-961-3131.


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