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Destination: CIUTADELLA, Menorca

One enchanted island

Tiny Menorca a sophisticated outpost of Mediterranean culture

By ROBIN ROBINSON - Sun Media
Costing along at Menorca's Cova d'en Xoroi. (Robin Robinson/Sun Media)

Costing along at Menorca's Cova d'en Xoroi. (Robin Robinson/Sun Media)


For a place that measures a mere 50 km or so from tip to tip, Menorca has had many masters.

One of Spain's Balearic Islands, its location in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea has drawn settlers, conquerors, pillagers and pirates to its shores since 2000 BC, says guide Jose Saguar.

Evidence of prehistoric human habitation survives in important ruins, objects and megalithic monuments. The Trepuco, near Mahon, is one of the best megalithic sites in the the Balearics. The Naveta des Tudons, a mass burial tomb near Ciutadella, is said to be one of the oldest preserved buildings in Europe.

Later waves of invaders included the Romans, Vandals, Moors, French and English with the 18th century a particularly busy time, says Saguar. That is when -- in the span of just 100 years or so -- the island was ruled three times by the British and once by the French before finally being ceded to Spain in the 1802 Treaty of Amiens.

Since then, life on the island has been relatively quiet. But each of those early masters of Menorca helped shape the landscape and the society, Saguar says. As a result, contemporary Menorca is a cosmopolitan place that has absorbed many influences into its own unique architecture, culture and traditions.

The island still attracts people from distant shores but modern day invaders are tourists -- mainly Brits and Germans -- who flock to its placid beaches and rocky coves in the summer months, Saguar says.

To most North Americans, Menorca remains undiscovered territory. But the local tourist board would like to change that by getting the word out about the island's attractions which, considering its size, are many. These include:

GREEN PARADISE

The same craggy coastline, sheltered coves and caves that drew pirates and conquerers now attract sun seekers by the thousands. Yachting, sailing, windsurfing, swimming, fishing, scuba diving and other water sports are common pastimes along the 216-km coast. Hiking on the Cami de Cavalls, an ancient footpath that goes around the island, biking on rural roads, and cave touring are popular as well.

For a small island, there is a wealth of eco-diversity, which prompted UNESCO to designate Menora a biosphere reserve in 1993. Its gullies, caves, wetlands and limestone cliffs are home to more than 1,000 species of plants and 200 species of birds.

ELEGANT TOWNS, VILLAGES

Menorca's main towns sit at opposite ends of the island. Mahon, the capital and the business centre, is known for its deep harbour while Ciutidella, the former capital, is known for its medieval charm and well preserved buildings. Around the island are picturesque fishing villages and charming resorts such as Binibeca with its white washed villas and sundrenched patios.

GIDDYUP

Menorcans have a passion for horses, which figure prominently in local lore, says Saguar. Smaller than other Spanish breeds, Menorcan horses are usually black but may have white markings on the head or feet. They are prized for their strength and agility in the show ring. Horses star in village festivals, such as the Festival of St. John, which takes place each year in Ciutadella.

There are many places around the island where visitors can ride, join pony-treks or attend horse races. At places such as Son Mavtovellet Ramaderia Farm near Ferreries, visitors can visit the stables and watch horse dancing and other equestrian displays.

WALK LIKE A MENORCAN

The island is mainly rural but manufacturing includes women's shoes and fashion jewelry. The must-have Menorcan souvenir is a pair of colourful avarques -- simple durable sandals made from an ancient design for people who worked the land. The environmentally friendly shoes -- with leather uppers and soles made from recycled tires -- are available everywhere and typically cost from $15 to $40.

A FORTRESS STRONG

After gaining control of Menorca in 1802, in 1848 the Spanish government decided to build a giant fortress near Mahon. The fort's official name is Fortress of Isabel II but it is widely referred to as La Mola. Started in 1850, rapid changes in technology rendered its armaments obsolete before it was completed in 1875.

"While other countries were building railways and roads (to support industrialization), Menorca was building a useless fortress," Saguar says.

Used as a military prison, and later for military training, today La Mola is a tourist attraction. Its buildings and shooting galleries -- some 400 metres long -- are very well preserved examples of

19th century military architecture.

PARTY IN A CAVE

On the south coast near Calan Porter, Cova d'en Xoroi hugs the cliffside. The cave and craggy outcroppings offer spectacular views from sunrise to way past sunset.

Local legend has it the cave was home to Xoroi, a mystery man who appeared from the sea. Some time after his arrival, a local girl went missing and area homes were robbed but no one knew who was responsible. After an unusual snowfall, authorities followed Xoroi's footsteps to the cave, but when confronted he and his eldest son jumped off the steep cliff into the sea.

Regardless of the rumour's veracity, Cova d'en Xoroi is an unforgettable spot to enjoy a drink during the day, listen to ambient and down tempo music as the moon comes up, or dance 'til dawn at the disco.

Bartender Serji Costas says the cave is "busy morning, noon and night during the summer, when DJs come from all over the world to spin tunes in the atmospheric Cave of the Moon.

"After the end of August, it's like the end of the world," says Costas, although during our visit in early October, there are many people on the patios enjoying the fall sunshine over a cocktail.

CUISINE

Mahon's claim to culinary fame is as the birthplace of mayonnaise. The condiment was created there by the chef of Louis Francois Armand du Plessis, duke of Richelieu, to celebrate the French military victory over the British at the port city.

Taditional Mediterranean cuisine dominates menus in city and village restaurants and cafes. Seafood, hearty soups, tapas, Mahon cheese, beef, and dishes with Arabic roots are staples. Dining out is usually a casual, leisurely, delicious and affordable affair that gets started after 9 p.m.

Good Spanish wine and beer are readily available and not expensive. In a nod to British rule, the national drink of the island is Menorcan gin. Distilled from wine and juniper berries, the spirit is served neat or as a pellofa (with a dash of soda and lemon peel) or a pomada (with lemonade or bitter lemon). There are several distilleries on the island. The oldest is Xoriguer Gin Distillery in Mahon, which is open to the public.

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BOTTOM LINE

MORE INFO

Menorca is one of the Balearic Islands, which include Mallorca, Ibiza and Formentera. The other islands are easily accessible, and make excellent day trips. Menorca's tourist season runs from May through October with July and August being the busiest. For information on this autonomous region of Spain, visit illesbalears.es, and e-menorca.org. The Spanish Tourist Board has an office in Toronto. Contact 416-961-3131 or tourspain.toronto.on.ca.

GETTING THERE

We were invited aboard Spain's largest airline -- Iberia -- to sample their business class service from Chicago to Madrid, where we made connections for the short hop to Menorca. Colleagues at the Spanish Tourist Board in Toronto tell me connecting with Iberia in Chicago is less hassle than transferring in New York or Washington. En route we were pampered with Spanish wine and food as well as seats that almost reclined into flat beds. See iberia.com for details.

This story was posted on Sat, April 21, 2007



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