A view of Inveraray Castle. (Shutterstock Images)

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INVERARAY, Scotland -- Finding a castle in Scotland is as easy as taking a high road, or a low road.

Through mists and rain while driving the Highlands last November, I saw several still occupied, more that are crumbling ruins, including Castle Kilchurn, rebuilt in the 1600s and owned by a Colin Campbell.

Many castles are only inhabited by ghosts and whispered memories, but my group was heading for one still occupied and open to visitors seven months each year.

Our destination, Inveraray Castle, was closed for the season. But our travel-writer's group was invited for a wee visit, and got an unexpected welcome from owner Torquhil Ian Campbell.

The 13th Duke of Argyll and head of Clan Campbell is mostly based in London, where he is regional manager for Chivas Brothers Ltd., exporters of Scotch -- a fitting occupation from the head of a Scottish clan.

Clan Campbell's chief, by the way, is called "MacCailean Mor," Gaelic for "Son of Colin the Great," a founding ancestor killed battling in 1296. Like many clans, his is planning a major gathering this year, marking the 250th anniversary of the birth of famed Scottish poet Robert Burns.

Such "homecomings" are part of several festivals, the biggest in Edinburgh on July 25-26. To coincide, on July 21 the duke is holding his family's first "homecoming" since 1983, at his mid-18th century storybook castle, which has turreted tower and a park-like grounds surrounding the site of a long-gone ancient castle.

We had a relaxed, 15-minute chat with Campbell, 40, whose wife Eleanor had their first daughter and third child the previous month.

At 12, the future duke was a Page of Honour to Queen Elizabeth II for three years, and later studied at McGill University in Montreal. His titles include Master of the Royal Household in Scotland, Keeper of the Great Seal of Scotland and Admiral of the Western Isles.

The most unusual, for which he is best-known, is captain of the national elephant polo team, Chivas Regal Scotland, which won the 2004 and 2005 World Elephant Polo Association world championships.

The duke encountered the giant beasties and the lofty version of polo in the Far East while working for French Pernod Ricard, which markets fine whiskies such as Glenlivet and Chivas Regal. Played by Scots in India in the 1800s, Elephant Polo was revived in 1982 in Nepal. Ceremonies retain a Scots flavour, with bagpipe music.

As a reminder, he had a lovely carved wooden elephant in his main hall.

His other Canadian connection, proudly displayed in paintings in an upper hall, is John George Edward Henry Douglas Sutherland Campbell. The Marquis of Lorne, 9th Duke of Argyll (1845-1914) and Canada's governor-general from 1878 to 1883, was married to Queen Victoria's daughter, Princess Louise Caroline Alberta -- whose name you will recognize.

Despite museum-like displays, unlike some older castles, "this is a living place," their descendant explained. "The definition of a castle is a fortified house, but technically speaking, this is a house.

"My family lives here six months of the year," he said. "We pride ourselves with it being a family home."

Some criticize large landowners for opening to visitors -- about 66,000 last year -- but Campbell said upkeep is extremely expensive and inheritance taxes are severe, so "you have to look at it from the financial benefit."

There is camping and the Town of Inveraray offers several attractions, including a 19th-century jail with re-enactors in costume.

Scotland's past is steeped in bloodshed, with legends of clans battling clans, plus English rule.

"My family certainly weren't saints," Campbell said. "They did a lot of bad things ... but, hopefully, that's in the past."

The duke plans to open the past even more, with an archives for one of the U.K.'s largest private collections, dating to the 1300s.

The castle hosts special events, including story-telling and music. On July 21, it will also be the setting for the Inveraray Highland Games, which start two hours before the 10:45 a.m. Clan Campbell March, led by the duke from the town to his grounds.

"A museum is not necessarily relevant to many people," he said. "So you have to make it relevant."

Overlooking beautiful Loch Fyne, Inveraray Castle is well worth a visit, for many reasons, past and present.

MORE INFORMATION

Inveraray Castle is open April 1-Oct. 31, from 10 a.m.-5:45 p.m. About 90 km from Glasgow Airport by car or bus or 138 km by car from Prestwick Airport. Visit inveraray-castle.com/Pages/content.asp for information on admission, etc. For more about Homecoming 2009 events throughout Scotland, see homecomingscotland.com.

IAN.ROBERTSON@SUNMEDIA.CA