It's a steep climb to the top of the Pyramid of Kukulkan, also called The Castillo or Castle, at Chichen Itza. (SUN Photo/Diane Rinne)

Sleepy crocodile eyes peer out from the bank. Small birds whiz by overhead like friendly fighter jets while in the distance an endangered jaribu stork stretches its long legs. My boyfriend and I are on the New River in Northern Belize, on our way to the ancient ruins of Lamanai. We have come to live out our Indiana Jones and Lara Croft fantasies, to climb pyramids and explore the tombs of kings.

Lamanai is part of the Mayan Route, a vast area encompassing parts of Eastern Mexico and Central America. With its towering temples and hieroglyph-covered statues spread across jungle, mountain and coastline, it rivals Egypt for majesty and mystery. The indigenous Maya thrived in this region thousands of years before the arrival of Hernan Cortes in 1519. They excelled at mathematics and astronomy, all while Europeans were still in the Dark Ages.

The most famed Mayan sites are Chichen Itza and Tulum, in Mexico\'s Yucatan peninsula. But the pre-Hispanic civilization built equally splendid cities in Guatemala, Honduras and Belize. Three of those sites -- Lamanai, Tikal and Copan -- are attracting an increasing number adventure seekers, beating a new path to their remote locations for the wildlife encounters and architectural and archeological treasures.

Belize is a tiny, English-speaking country with a laid-back Caribbean atmosphere and surprising ethnic mix. On the streets, you can hear Mayan, Spanish, Creole, Chinese and German while sampling iced seaweed drinks, tacos and chicken fried rice.

Yet this is still the land of the Maya. Hidden in the Belizean jungle are several important archeological sites. Lamanai is popular for its setting, on a lagoon reached by a two-hour boat ride. Most visitors come on organized trips from Ambergris Caye (TV\'s Temptation Island) or the nearby city of Orange Walk, which is where we signed up with Jungle River Tours.

Our guide Antonio, a native Belizean, provided our small group with his mother\'s homemade rice and beans for lunch and detailed tour of the river and ruins.

Lamanai (\"submerged crocodile\" in Maya) has clearly marked paths through dense ceiba and breadnut trees. Apart from working archeologists, we encountered only two other small groups and a shy tapir. All the better to enjoy features like a four-metre tall stucco mask or magnificent carved stelae documenting the ascension of Lamanai\'s Lord Smoking Shell in 608 A.D. We were proud to learn that much of Lamanai was excavated by David Pendergast of Toronto\'s Royal Ontario Museum and Canadians work there to this day.

Lamanai\'s quiet splendour is still just a teaser en route to Tikal. Located in a massive national park deep in Guatemala\'s El Peten jungle, visiting it once required an arduous trek. Today, planes fly into nearby Flores daily and luxury Mercedes-Benz coaches shuttle passengers from Belize, southern Mexico and across Guatemala.

We arrived independently, to experience Tikal at our own pace. This meant sleeping on-site, so we rented a room at the Tikal Inn, which has a pool, but no electricity after 10 p.m. Perfect for rising early and cooling off at noon.

Tikal\'s sprawling metropolis contains five major temples, up to 64 metres high, that make perfect perches at sunrise or sunset, mother nature permitting. In the Great Plaza, two towers face off in a proud display of Mayan architectural prowess (and a fixation with symmetry). Views from above the jungle canopy are spectacular.

Throughout the day, we were rewarded with repeated sightings of howler and spider monkeys, toucans and pizotes, a friendly (read: hungry) creature similar to a raccoon. People fill the Great Plaza at midday, but the park never feels overcrowded. Tikal was built to accommodate up to 100,000 residents and bustling commerce around the time of Christ. There is more than enough room for each tourist to find personal space.

Copan, Honduras, just inside Guatemala\'s south eastern border, is home to world class art and artifacts. Reachable by day or weekend trip from Guatemala City or the Honduran coast, the nearby town -- confusingly called Copan Ruins -- has a pretty main square with several recently renovated hotels and quality craft shops that attracts cowboys on horseback and international tour groups.

A well manicured and spacious site guarded by friendly parrots, Copan\'s claim to fame is a flight of 63 steps covered in thousands of hieroglyphs. Another treat is the opening of the archeologists\' Rosalila tunnel to visitors. Mayan rulers habitually built over structures dedicated to their predecessors, and from beneath the newest pyramids you can actually see the steps from past eras. It costs extra, but it\'s worth it. Same goes for the on-site Museum of Sculpture, featuring a scale replica of Rosalila painted in blazing red, just as it would have appeared in the 4th century.

Archeologists are still unravelling the mysteries of the Mayan civilization. Soon their pyramids may be off-limits to climbing, their jungle paradise paved into parking lots, but for now Lamanai, Tikal and Copan still let you feel like the first explorer to discover them.

GETTING THERE: Independent travel is inexpensive and rewarding. Fly to Cancun, Mexico, on Air Transat or indirect to Guatemala City on Air Canada/Mexicana, Continental or Group TACA and sightsee on local buses and/or first class shuttles.

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PACKAGES: Toronto\'s Gap Adventures offers several small group tours focused on Mayan archeological sites and culture. Contact www.gapadventures.com; 416-260-0999.

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ON THE WEB: www.belizediscover.com; www.tikalpark.com; www.honduras.com; www.mayadiscovery.com.

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RECOMMENDED READING: Time Among The Maya by Ronald Wright; Lonely Planet: Belize, Guatemala And Yucatan.