By
CHRIS MILLIKAN -- Special to Canoe Travel
In the glare of today's spotlight, Athens prepares feverishly for the grand return of the Olympic games to their birthplace. Officials predict that newly constructed buildings will become modern legacies. This renewed focus on the historic Greek capital reminds me of a remarkable summer's day in the Athens heat. My family and I had some unexpected time to spend there following a wonderful cruise holiday in the Mediterranean. An Art History student at the time, our daughter inspired us to visit the famed Acropolis. "We could just walk up there from the hotel," she'd stated with confidence. "It'll be so worth it. You'll see." We didn't fully realize just how dazzling Pericle's ancient city would really be until we'd been there.
High above Athens, the Acropolis dominates the skyline. Over centuries, visitors have climbed atop the limestone heights, finding themselves swept into the splendor of Greece's Golden Age, exactly as we soon were.
Starting along the south slope, we passed the ancient Theatre of Dionysis, once the scene of riotous festivals. Later, tragedies by Sophocles, Euripedes, Aeschylus and bawdy comedies by Aristophanes first played there before over 17,000 patrons on sixty-four tiers of limestone seats. The nearby Roman-built Theater of Atticus (161 A.D.) still presents performances of high culture. We climbed steep, polished marble stairways worn slippery-smooth by years of sandaled feet. Through the Propylaia (437 B.C.), a towering gateway in ancient times, we visualized elaborate paintings once adorning the immense north wing known as "the picture gallery." Ceilings in the central hall had been painted blue and studded with golden stars. Looking almost square with perfectly proportioned marble columns at front and back, the small Temple of Athena (420 B. C.) perched to our right. Frieze fragments depicting battles and myths remain, but a graceful sculpture of Nike fastening her sandal now resides in the museum. This little temple is being completely restored for the upcoming Olympic celebrations. Most sacred, the Erecthion (421 B. C.) was constructed of columns, gate and porch, all of differing proportions. Six graceful maidens in flowing peplos, the renowned Caryatids, seem to watch serenely over the city as they support its splendid roof. Legend has it that it was here that Athena defeated the great Poseidon to become the city's patron.
The celebrated Parthenon (447-432 B.C.) epitomizes classic Greek grandeur with its exquisite proportions, balance and harmony. Eight fluted columns stand on each end, seventeen down each side. Each pedestal once displayed detailed mythical marble scenes. Above, a 152-meter frieze encircled the walls, bits of which we could still see. Originally, carved gods and giants were featured on the east, centaurs on the south, Athenians and Amazons on the west and the Trojan War on the north. In spite of scaffolding skeletons battling the ravages of time, we could easily picture brightly painted and lavishly gilded sculptures standing in the now dusty plaza. Inside, Athena's statue of gold and ivory was a wonder of the ancient world. Helmeted with sphinx and griffins, bejeweled eyes and flowing dress of gold, she had soared 12 meters skyward. Escaping the withering afternoon heat for a while, we slipped into the Acropolis Museum. Chronologically ordered, nine cool rooms display excavated sculptures, busts, marble torsos, clay pottery and figurines. Though many works of art once ornamenting the Acropolis have been stolen or sent abroad, there remained much to appreciate. Pediments, friezes, and building decorations formed a remarkable artistic collection, including bronzes, statuettes and lovely vases that had been offered to Athena as early as 650 B.C.
Outside again, warm breezes tickled our feet and faces. Skies veiled with mauve and yellow haze did nothing to impede breathtaking views of the sprawling city below. We identified popular landmarks: the busy plaka (marketplace); Temple of Olympic Zeus, and the 70,000 seat Olympic Stadium. First built in 4 B.C. for the Panathenaic Games and faithfully restored for the first modern Olympics in 1896, its marble beauty will again be featured during the marathon event and archery competitions during the 28th Olympiad this summer. We picked our way back along the dusty, rubble-strewn Panathenaic Way, lingering along the derelict marble roadway cutting across the site. Extravagant statuary at one time stood on pedestal foundations still lining the Way. We envisioned magnificent processions winding along narrow streets and stairs leading from the crowded ancient agora to honour Athena's birthday: young girls holding drinking horns aloft, costumed dancers, lively musicians and old men carrying olive branches. By the time we left, the late afternoon sun had painted the marble remnants of Pericles' glorious city golden.
We last glimpsed the Acropolis from the hotel rooftop. Illuminated, it shimmered and glowed, hovering mystically in a black velvet sky. Magically spiritual, it transcended all time. Our bonus day in remarkable Athens had been truly well spent.
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