(SUN/Donald L. Telfer)

PAPEETE, French Polynesia -- They were subtle tugs at reality. The hockey game on TV. The red-headed roosters at lunch. The pit-bull terrier on the beach.

These were easily overlooked in this tropical escape from reality. Long before I arrived, the magic of "the islands of dreams" has pulled at myth, luring travellers since the mutinous Lt. Fletcher Christian jumped His Majesty's ship Bounty.

Teasing with fantasy, mystique and promise this bewitchingly lovely selection of South Pacific islands was promoted by the first French sailor who dropped anchor a decade earlier.

"I thought I was transported into the Garden of Eden," said Louis-Antoine de Bougainville, who was sure he had found heaven on earth when a beautiful topless Tahitian girl greeted the weary sailors.

The myth was born.

For more than 200 years, Tahiti has lured artists, writers and actors, including Marlon Brando who liked the place so much after filming Mutiny On The Bounty that he bought his own coral paradise. Today, some 150,000 aloha-shirted tourists are greeted annually -- about the number who visit Hawaii in 10 days -- at the Tahiti-Faa'a International Airport by singing, smiling Tahitians who set the happy tone.

Crossroad

Located midway between California and Australia, Tahiti is a crossroad of South Seas travel. The largest of 115 islands in French Polynesia, Tahiti was ruled by the Pomare dynasty until 1880 when the island became a French colony. Polynesia became a French Overseas Territory and since 1984 it has been internally autonomous.

The French influence is everywhere, including a base of the French Foreign Legion. There is a large French military presence -- vehicles on the road, ships in the harbour and aircraft at the airport.

The French investment has had a profound effect on the economy, making Tahiti one of the most prosperous islands in the South Pacific. And one of the most expensive.

Thanks to the French government's decree of high tariffs on imports, a litre of gas costs about $2US, a Coke is $3US and cab fare from Tahiti-Faa'a International Airport to downtown after midnight costs about $40US.

There are compensations. There is no sales tax, no tipping, no departure tax and no income tax for those contemplating jumping ship.

Papeete -- pronounced "Pah-pay-ED-tay" -- is the busy, noisy and hot capital of French Polynesia. There are numerous shops selling Tahitian black pearls and Chinese wares, trendy boutiques selling pareos and shell necklaces, and restaurants, restaurants, restaurants.

The most frequently found Tahitian dish is poisson cru or marinated fish. The tuna-like bonito fish, marinated in lime juice and served with coconut milk, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and tempting French bread, is a popular way to start a meal or enjoy a light lunch.

After lunch at a roulette (meal stand in a van), I walked over to the harbour, which is a spectacular site especially when the gleaming white Wind Song is berthed. The luxury cruise ship has been replaced by the larger m/s Paul Gauguin. Named after the artist who painted enduring images of Tahiti, the Radisson Seven Seas cruise ship sets sail for week-long cruises, dropping anchor at other exotic ports such as mythical Bali Ha'i (Moorea), Bora Bora and Rangiroa.

Floating classroom

Another ship that drew attention in Papeete was the Concordia, a 55.7-metre square-rigger from West Island College in British Columbia. The steel, three-masted vessel was on a South Pacific cruise with her 48 students, a virtual floating classroom.

After a typical morning of serious loafing, I ventured down to the beach restaurant for a sandwich and Coke. During the half-hour or so I spent admiring the view across to Bali Ha'i, two red-headed roosters jolted my dreamy train of thought. Parading undisturbed back and forth across the restaurant floor, they were my first collision with reality, a reminder of early rising and laborious work back home on the farm.

As the sun started to slip away for the day, I walked down to a residential area of Papeete, passing many "mail boxes" where twice daily residents receive their French bread, made, of course, by the Chinese who are the bakers, merchants and shakers in Tahiti.

I wanted to capture one of the famous Tahitian sunsets on film but was prevented from proceeding by a chain-link fence when a voice behind me asked where I was going. When I told him, he broke into a broad smile.

"You should be careful around here," he cautioned. "My pit bull just had pups and she's very protective."

With the thought of the pit bull on the other side of the fence, I walked along the black volcanic sand beach, surprising a giant daddy longlegs that scurried past me, its slender legs working overtime to reach safety in the quickly darkening bay.

I returned to put my feet up at the Hyatt Regency Tahiti, the site where de Bougainville put ashore and the myth began. Lo and behold, the New York Rangers and Toronto Maple Leafs were facing off on TV. Less than five minutes later, the satellite transmission from Australia was lost.

That's the way it should be in Tahiti. No one should be watching a hockey game in this South Seas escape from reality.

If you go:

POPULATION: About 190,000, of whom 130,000 live in Papeete, the capital.

GETTING THERE: Air Canada to Los Angeles, and Air New Zealand to Papeete. Sample airfare from Toronto: $1,968.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

Tahiti Budget Lodge (downtown Papeete). Call 689-42-66-82.

Chez Armelle, Punaauia (near airport). Call 689-58-42-43.

Hotel Tahiti (between the airport and Papeete). Call 689-82-95-50.

GOOD READING: Tahiti-Polynesia Handbook, Moon Publications, Inc., PO Box 3040, Chico, CA 95927-3040.

MORE INFORMATION: Tahiti Tourisme, 300 N. Continental Blvd., Suite 160, El Segundo, CA 90245. Call 310-414-8484.