By
STEPHEN RIPLEY, QMI Agency
MAITENCILLO, Chile - If the average human body is 60% water, I figure I’m somewhere in the 90% range at the moment. In my first day of surfing lessons here on Chile’s central coast, I’ve learned many things — how to put on a wetsuit, how to swim out to the break and how to paddle furiously when a wave is coming. Unfortunately, I still don’t know how to stand up on a surfboard. Even worse, I haven’t yet mastered the delicate art of closing my mouth when I’m about to get pounded by a wave, which happens so often that I’m now carrying two or three litres of the Pacific Ocean in my stomach. Fortunately, I save plenty of room for pizza and Chilean cabernet, which my fellow first-timers and I consume with gusto when we reconvene on the deck of our rented beach house at sunset. We nurse sore arms and shoulders, sharing stories of epic wipeouts and those rare, fleeting moments when we came oh-so-close to actually riding a wave in the recommended upright position. Our group — travellers from Quebec, Ontario, Alberta and the U.S. — has come together for Surf and Singletrack, a nine-day outdoor sampler that will see us bounce between Chile’s 6,000-km-long coastline and the second-biggest mountain range in the world. The main draw is mountain biking in the Andes but between the surfing, the wine and the culture, we’ll have plenty to keep us busy. Our journey begins in Santiago, where we are greeted by Martin and Pancho, our guides from B.C.-based Sacred Rides Mountain Bike Adventures. After unpacking and assembling our bikes, we head into the foothills for a warm-up ride on the extensive trail network criss-crossing the flanks of Huinganal Mountain on the outskirts of town. “Warm-up” turns out to be an understatement, as about half the group — myself included — struggles with the steepness of the climb and the 30-degree heat. But the ever-friendly, ever-dreadlocked Pancho stays behind to encourage us up the mountain, telling stories and getting to know us in the process. We don’t need as much prodding on our second day in the saddles, which begins halfway up Cerro el Roble in the coastal range about an hour north of Santiago. Looking to the east as we climb, we are inspired by sweeping views of the Andes, including the massive pyramid of Cerro Aconcagua, at almost 7,000 metres the highest peak in the Americas. Our reward after 90 minutes of climbing is the descent, which begins with narrow, rocky traverses through the pines and then emerges into more steep, open terrain. We snake our way down sandy, narrow switchbacks, trying to avoid the thorn bushes and cacti that grab at our arms and legs as we race past. We hit bottom about two hours later in the village of Olmue, where we stop at a tienda for some much-needed drinks and snacks. Thanks to the thorns — not to mention a fall or two — most of us are leaking red from one place or another, but we’re all wearing broad smiles, proud to have conquered such a wild ride. Trading dirt for pavement, Day 3 sees us hit the streets of Valparaiso, the historic seaport once known as the Jewel of Pacific. Valpo’s glory has faded in recent decades, but its unique topography, 19th-century architecture and vibrant culture earn it full marks as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Eschewing the system of funiculars that ply Valparaiso’s many steep hills, we opt instead for a pedal-powered tour. Grinding up cobbled streets and clattering down stone stairways, we get our daily dose of endorphins between stops for shopping and sight-seeing. The sights are postcard-worthy, with brightly hued homes and storefronts in the foreground and lumbering container ships plying the busy port as the backdrop. After a quick lunch, we pile into the shuttle bus for the drive to Maitencillo, a small beach town about an hour north of Valpo. Our accommodations are cramped but comfortable ... and only a two-minute walk to the beach, where we spend the afternoon under the tutelage of a team of local surfing instructors. For the next three days, we alternate between surf and singletrack. In the mornings, we head inland for fast, challenging riding up and down the foothills, weaving our way through lush jungle before bursting free from the canopy to enjoy huge views of the Pacific far below. In the afternoons, we cool off in the waves, never quite managing to look like real surfers, but gradually improving and having tons of fun along the way. The evenings are reserved for food and drink, both of which we sample with great enthusiasm. One of our favourite hangouts is a reasonably priced seafood restaurant called Puntamai, where we enjoy conger eel, sea bass and a spicy stew of razor clams, abalone and shrimp, all washed down with the excellent Chilean Torobayo Ale. The beer may be good, but the wine is even better, as we discover on Day 7 when we visit Vina San Esteban, a winery on the eastern edge of the Aconcagua Valley. A guide shows us around the vineyard, explains aging techniques and points out a wall full of international awards, but we don’t really understand how special this place is until we begin sampling its wares. My favourite is Laguna del Inca, a rich blend of Syrah, Cabernet, Carmenere and Sangiovese grapes. The spec sheet says it has aromas of “dark fruit, rhubarb, leather and spice,” with “ripe, round tannins” and hints of vanilla and wild berries. After a couple of glasses, I settle on my own description: damn tasty. Nearby is San Francisco Lodge, a rustic resort nestled high in the Andes. It’s an idyllic setting, with horses and goats grazing among the cabins and huge, granite peaks looming all around. We still have two days of great riding ahead of us but right now, the bikes can wait. Still buzzed from the tasting, we lounge poolside, watching the sun paint the mountains yellow, orange and red as it descends the cloudless sky. Damn tasty, indeed. This story was posted on Thu, May 20, 2010 More HeadlinesSome Brazilians seek escape from CarnivalMachu Picchu a must-see will.i.am praises passionate Brazilians Brazil, from top to bottom Tips from the World's End |
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