Plant Museum -- Photos by Patricia Job, Sun

Research shows that 30% of all international visitors to the Tampa Bay area are Canadian. The only surprise here is that the percentage isn't higher. Another survey shows we are now ready to soak up some culture along with our sunshine and citrus.

Midway up the west coast of Florida lies Tampa Bay, which is an umbrella name for the Tampa, St. Petersburg and Clearwater coastal region. There's an abundance of historical, cultural and artistic offerings here -- and great restaurants.

Step back in time and you'll find that Tampa was originally an Indian fishing village. In the early 1500s, Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon sailed in and it wasn't until 1821 that the U.S. purchased Florida from Spain. In 1855, the town of Tampa was officially born. After that, things really began to heat up.

Railroad magnate Henry B. Plant extended his railway line to Tampa in 1884 and soon opened the magnificent Tampa Bay Hotel to accommodate the wealthy and the well-connected (Teddy Roosevelt, Thomas Edison, Babe Ruth and Sarah Bernhardt all took rooms there). At a cost of $3 million, it was a sumptuous destination and Plant pulled out all the stops.

Look at the modern-day skyline of downtown Tampa and your eye will be caught by an intriguing sight. Silver minarets, domes and turrets reach up into the bright blue sky. This is Plant's extravagant hotel. Built in Moorish style, it's a sprawling estate complete with a wide, gracious veranda, and faint, flickering lights (all 511 rooms were lit by a first in Florida -- electric light).

Plant died just eight years after his hotel was completed, and it was soon sold to the city of Tampa, which maintains part of this National Historic Landmark as a Victorian museum. Another section of the former hotel belongs to the University of Tampa campus. Visit www.plantmuseum.com for more information.

Directly across from the Plant Museum, separated by the lovely Hillsborough River, is the Tampa Museum of Art. It was home to a recent, vibrant Toulouse-Lautrec exhibition and is now focusing on contemporary art in the workplace with the Neuberger Berman Art Collection.

These and other cultural beacons surrounded by the highrise office buildings of downtown Tampa are in an area called the Cultural Arts District. Big plans are underway for its revitalization. The Museum of Art will move closer to the main road, revealing a swath of river view behind. This riverwalk will soon be a blend of cafes, shops and cultural facilities.

Around the same time as Plant's vision was steaming into town, another entrepreneur turned his eyes to Tampa. Cuban exile Don Vicente Martinez Ybor moved to the palmetto-covered Tampa Bay area in the late 19th-century and brought his cigar business with him. Soon Spanish, Italian, German and Cuban (and Afro-Cuban) workers thronged to what became known as Mr. Ybor's City, then shortened to Ybor City. Their lives contrasted greatly with those of the Tampa Bay Hotel visitors. Their underpaid and difficult work in local factories made Ybor City the cigar capital of the world for decades.

Despite the laborious workdays, a colourful enclave thrived. Now a National Historic Landmark District, Ybor City is a location not to be missed. Enjoy a caffe con leche, buy a hand-rolled cigar, a Cuban sandwich, even a guava scone at one of the many cafes, and let the voices, smells and sights of the past claim you. Better still, take a guided tour.

Historic Guides is one of a handful of small organizations that will transport you to turn-of-the-century Ybor City. Actors (including owner Maureen Patrick, dressed period-appropriate) will take you on an unforgettable walking tour. See www.historicguides.com for additional information.

Ybor City State Museum, a wonderful little building that previously housed a bakery, is now an ideal starting place for a tour. Beside the museum are three restored cigar worker's "casitas," one of which is open to tourists.

Around the corner, past renovated cigar factories and the spot where Cuban revolutionary leader Jose Marti delivered a moving speech to the workers urging them to give up one full day's pay for their fellow Cuban cigar workers, 7th Ave. stretches outward.

This main street is an appealing hub of wrought-iron balconies, brick walkways, globed streetlights, coffeehouses, nightclubs and Centro Ybor, a trendy new mall.

OLDEST restaurant in Florida, Columbia, with beautiful tiled entrance.

Columbia restaurant, also on 7th Ave., is the oldest restaurant in Florida and the largest Spanish restaurant in the world -- measuring an entire city block long. This family owned business seats 1,660 in its 11 rooms, but you won't feel crowded there. You'll feel more like a welcome guest.

Richard Gonzmart (who owns Columbia with his brother) demonstrates a vivacity and enthusiasm for the business, passed down by his parents. Try Columbia's sangria, munch on the long, mouth-watering Cuban sandwiches and authentic Spanish dishes.

After a day of sightseeing, you might want to relax with a movie at the restored Tampa Theatre in downtown Tampa. For over 75 years, concerts and revues have been shown in a glorious amphitheatre-style setting with gargoyles, Roman statues, tapestries and a fake night sky with twinkling stars. When the theatre opened in 1926, it advertised air-conditioning, a rarity at the time, and folks flocked to experience "man-made air." Guided tours take place twice a month. Visit www.tampatheatre.org or call 813-274-89821.

Two restaurants of note in the nearby SoHo area are related: Bern's Steak House and SideBern's are both operated under the influence of chef/partner Jeannie Pierola. Bern's opened in 1956 and amid a lux eclectic decor, it's been going strong ever since. Their wine list is second to none. Don't leave out dessert, especially their Macadamia Nut Ice Cream, from a secret recipe developed by founder Bern Laxer. The younger SideBern's features a fusion menu and is the place to see and be seen.

Less expensive, but possessing a charm born of good food prepared well, is the sports-bar style restaurant, Lee Roy Selmon's, on West Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa. Be prepared for some surprisingly good southern comfort food.

Clearwater Beach

A partner in the restaurant, the former Tampa Bay Buccaneer lends not only his name but some of his mama's recipes. Selmon's Stuffed Mississippi Catfish, Mama Selmon's Meatloaf, Sweet Potato topped with marshmallow, Backyard BBQ Chicken -- all superb.

Currently in Tampa as part of a travelling exhibit is another turn-of-the-century legend, the Titanic, the ship of dreams that went down in 1912. At the Museum of Science and Industry, an IMAX facility, is Titanic: The Artifact Exhibit, supplemented with the short films Ghosts Of The Abyss, by James Cameron, and Titanica.

Collect your boarding pass and enter. The pass tells the brief, poignant tale of a R.M.S. Titanic passenger. An example might be the story of Mrs. John Bourke ("Kate"), 32, from Ireland, who was travelling third class to Chicago. She is reported to have suggested that the 14-strong in her group kneel and recite the rosary. As you leave the exhibit, a search for Kate's name reveals she perished on that cold, moonless night.

After viewing the artifacts brought up from the ocean floor where Titanic rests (including laced-up shoes and half-full champagne bottles still corked), and re-creations of the grand staircase and first and third-class bedrooms, approach the "iceberg." Press your hand into the ice, close your eyes and listen to sounds from that terrible night. For more information, contact MOSI at www.mosi.org or 813-987-6300.

Over in St. Petersburg, just a half-hour drive from Tampa, is another not-to-be-missed venue, the Salvador Dali Museum. The brochure poses the question, "Dali, Genius or Madman?" The eccentric artist once said the only difference between himself and a madman is "that I am not mad!"

Caledesi State Park

Dali is represented here by six of his 18 masterpieces plus many large oils, sculptures and drawings. His obsession with his Russian wife Gala is deserving of its own room, where over 40 images, some from Dali, give insight into his "muse." Exhibits and events celebrate the year-long 2004 Dali Centennial.

Visit www.salvadordalimuseum.org for more information.

Up the west coast are a series of beaches including Clearwater Beach, voted No. 1 city beach in the Gulf region. It features Sunsets At Pier 60, a lively spot to enjoy crafts, artists and street entertainers. Also, a short ferry ride through a mangrove forest takes you to Caladesi Island State Park, a natural barrier island.

Bottom Line

CIGAR ROLLING demonstration at Ybor City State Museum. Ybor City was once the cigar capital of the world.

GETTING THERE: U.S. Airways flies into Charlotte, N.C., and on to Tampa International Airport.

ACCOMMODATIONS: Chase Suite Hotel by Woodfin is minutes from the airport and overlooks Old Tampa Bay. Contact 1-800-WOODFIN or www.woodfinsuites.com/tampa. Sirata Beach Resort is on St. Pete Beach. Contact www.siratabeach.com or 727-363-5105.

MORE INFO: Contact Visit Florida at www.flausa.com.