By
IAN MCDOUGALL -- Sun Media
It's got the toughest sounding licence plate in North America. But beyond the muscular motto lies picturesque lakes and heavily wooded mountains -- reinforced with a backbone of real North American history. "Live free or die" was coined by one of the state's leading citizens. General John Stark was a major figure of the American Revolution fighting in the Battle of Bunker Hill. Stark made Manchester, N.H., his home. It is the state's largest city, and home to the one time driving force behind the its economy -- textile mills. Once named Derryfield, the expanding mill complex was built to rival Manchester, England. The town eventually took its English counterpart's name.
The massive mill compound dominates the city -- now home to a variety of industries -- the cotton textile industry having dried up years ago. Now they house computer tech outfits as well as a museum and other businesses in an urban reclamation project that Toronto's own Distillery district planners would be wise to study. East towards New Hampshire's tiny coastline is Portsmouth -- one of the oldest communities in North America -- first settled in 1623 by the English, attracted to its fishing, timber and deep Piscataqua River, which now features the Portsmouth Navy Shipyard. Portsmouth residents take immense pride in their city, given its considerable history. History penetrates every pore of this town, which can be seen in its many antiquated homes, including one on the corner of Middle and State Streets. It's the place where Revolutionary War legend John Paul Jones hung his hat while his ships The Ranger and The America were outfitted in the shipyards.
Tour coordinator Joan Chawziuk, who specializes in historic walks, said people can still walk the streets at night without fear for their safety. Further up the coast, travellers can take advantage of New Hampshire's ocean front by tidepooling or surfing. Just outside Portsmouth, in the Odiorne State Park, is the Seacoast Science Centre. It's good if you're travelling with kids. It features several aquariums featuring wildlife from the area and samples from tidepools.
The Mill Falls Inns are located in Meredith on Routes 3 and 25.
In contrast to the view, Meredith is also one of the base camps for bike week. A roaring attraction for motorcyclists across North America and usually kick starts in June. Laconia, south of Meredith, is the host city. The terrain gets more rugged, and the accommodations more civilized, the closer to the state's epicentre. The crowning natural feature of New Hampshire is Mt. Washington. At 1,916 metres, it's the highest peak in the Northeastern United States. It also has the dubious distinction of having some of the harshest weather on the planet. The World's Record for recorded windspeed was set here in April 1934 at 370 km/h. The guides will tell you it was probably higher because it was at that speed that the meter broke. There are two ways to the top of the mountain. One, the tougher of the two routes, is by hiking.
The second, no less intimidating, is to climb aboard a vehicle that looks to be ripped from a dictionary definition of "contraption." Cog railways were once fairly common and used to haul big loads up steep inclines. The principle is simple: A toothed wheel on the engine rides along a slotted rail. The teeth on the wheel, like a large gear, mesh with the slots in the rail and allow the engine to climb steep hills without sliding down the rails. Mount Washington's was one of the first to be used in North America. The ride to the top takes a jerky hour. When you get off the mountains reputation for bad weather is quickly proven. The wind hits you in the face like a brick -- while lashing you with rain that stings like pebbles. Cloud banks make it impossible to see further than 100 feet -- it's an experience. But not far from Mount Washington is Bretton Woods and impressive Mount Washington Resort.
It was here in 1944, delegates from 44 countries established the World Bank and International Monetary Fund. The agreement was signed in the resort's Gold Room, which has been designated a historic site. But maybe more important, especially to baseball or golf fans, Babe Ruth kept a golf locker here which can still be seen. Whatever someone's hobby or interest, there's bound to be something to catch their eye in New Hampshire.
It's close proximity to Quebec's border makes it an ideal option for a short road trip or weekend get away. --- BOTTOM LINE MORE INFORMATION For details on hotels and travel, contact White Mountains, visitwhitemountains.com; Portsmouth, portsmouthchamber.org; Meredith (Mill Falls), millfalls.com; New Hampshire general, visitnh.gov; Mount Washington/Bretton Woods, mtwashington.com, brettonwoods.com; Manchester, manchestercvb.com; The Millyard Museum, manchesterhistoric.org. This story was posted on Fri, August 4, 2006 More Headlines48 hours in StoweBuffalo gallery open for all Boston for beer lovers Victorian getaway for Valentine's Jay-Z and West take over N.Y. hotel |
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