Ice glaciers and snow cap mountains, Glacier Bay National Park, Alaska (Comstock)

Alaska: In Photos

Like many people, Ken Patterson is passionate about clean water. But he's not a concerned citizen or an environmental activist, Patterson is the chief engineer on board Holland America Line's Westerdam.

In that capacity, he strives to not only meet industry standards for water quality, but to exceed them. During a behind the scenes tour, an animated Patterson holds up two containers for our group of North American journalists to examine.

One is filled with thick black sludge -- sewage that Patterson calls "black water" -- the other one contains "grey water" -- less soiled waste from onboard activities such as showers, laundry and dishwashing.

It takes more treatment to turn black water into clean water but after being treated, this waste water will be "almost drinking water quality," Patterson declares emphatically. Only then will it be released into the sea.

Cruise lines are governed by the MARPOL convention, which Patterson calls the "bible of waste treatment and discharge for any kind of ship."

In recent years, increased environmental awareness has meant cruise ships have had to meet increasingly stringent regulations. And some destinations, particularly ecologically sensitve places such as Alaska, have rules even tougher than the industry standard.

Developments like these have prompted Holland America to make major investments in hi-tech equipment. Today, every ship in its fleet carries an environmental officer who ensures that all aspects of operations exceed minimum environmental requirements.

The cruise line's commitment is not only about meeting regulations, says Sarah Scoltock, a public relations manager with Holland America.

Alaska cruises are the cornerstone of the Seattle-based company's business. They attract a high percentage of both first-time cruisers and repeat customers. Both types of passengers want to experience Alaska's pristine wilderness so becoming involved in environmental stewardship is the right thing to do and makes good business sense, Scoltock says.

Our one-week cruise in late-September was the last one of the Alaskan season for the Westerdam, which accommodates up to 1,848 guests and has 800 crew members. Eight Holland America ships return to Alaskan waters in May with cruises again scheduled through September.

The weather couldn't have been more perfect as we sailed off into the sunset from Seattle's Puget Sound early on a Sunday evening. Our verandah stateroom was spacious and bright, and the promise of new destinations to discover -- Glacier Bay National Park, Juneau, Sitka, Ketchikan and Victoria, B.C., -- and a few languorous "sea days" lie ahead.

I am fascinated by the ocean and sea days are my chance to play hooky from an otherwise hectic life. Every cruise ship I have sailed on has had a lounge, high up in the ship, with wrap-around windows, where you can find a comfy chair, sip tea or something stronger, and watch dreamily as the wworld slips by. On the Westerdam, it's called the Crow's Nest and it soon became my favourite spot.

Still, there is only so much laziness a person can take and when it's time to get active, passengers don't have to look very hard for something to do. From the computer labs to the fitness centre to the Vegas-style shows to the Greenhouse Spa, to films, lectures, shops, casinos and children's programs, it's hard to be bored on a ship like the Westerdam.

And then there's the food. Cruise lore has it that the average passenger gains 8 pounds per week. It's easy to believe. There are opportunities to nosh at every turn -- from the main Vista dining room to the reservation-only Pinnacle Grill to the 24-hour room service.

But why just munch when you can munch and mingle?

Our trip was billed as a culinary cruise, which meant there were also food-oriented activities and a celebrity chef -- Aaron Sanchez -- on board.

The energetic and ebullient Sanchez is a hip "nuevo Latino" restaurateur from New York City and a cohost of the Food Network's Melting Pot.

To the delight of passengers, Sanchez performed his culinary magic in the Westerdam's theatre-style Culinary Arts Centre, an elaborate demonstration kitchen with slick lighting and plasma video screens for close-ups of the slicing, dicing, blanching and boiling.

After Sanchez was finished "bringing a little spice to the ship" with his shrimp ceviche and zesty pumpkin soup, there were samples -- of course -- and recipes to try at home.

Holland America runs the culinary program in partnership with Food & Wine magazine. In addition to appearances by celebrity chefs and cookbook authors, there are cooking classes and demonstrations with the ship's master chefs, and wine seminars.

As entertaining as Sanchez is, the real star of the voyage is Alaska itself.

Cruising through Glacier Bay National Park, which is only accessible by ship or by plane, is a once in a lifetime experience. The ship glides soundlessly past icebergs and tidewater glaciers that spill out into the bay from snow capped mountains. The silence in the vast marine wilderness is broken only by the intermittent booming of glaciers calving, which sends tonnes of ice crashing -- and splashing --into the sea.

In every port, Holland America has extensive options for exploring the shore -- everything from whale watching, bear watching and salmon fishing, to hiking, kayaking, lumberjack shows and panning for gold. You can see towering totem poles and learn a bit about the local Tlingit culture.

Our standout shore excursion was a four glacier tour by helicopter. Not only did we see amazing views of crevasses from the air but the pilot landed right on the ice and let us out for a slippery walkabout.

In Victoria, with our adventure drawing to a close, we consoled ourselves at the Fairmont Empress Hotel with tea and plate loads of freshly baked scones topped with huge dollops of strawberry preserves and clotted cream.

The next day it was back to Seattle for disembarkation and the flight home to Toronto.

Our suitcases were full of souvenirs and our heads full of memories -- of silent evergreen forests and blue ice and misty fjords and a black dog running down the side of the road with a salmon in its mouth -- images that won't soon be forgotten.

BOTTOM LINE

CRUISE TIP

You don't go to Alaska for a sun holiday -- the Southeast region of the state is part of the world's largest temperate rainforest -- so bring a good raincoat and sturdy shoes.

MORE INFORMATION

For details on Holland America Line's Alaska cruises, see hollandamerica.com or your travel agent.