October 9, 2009
Retro chic in Palm Springs
Jewel of the desert once a celebrity playground
By JULES RICHER, SUN MEDIA
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Known as the jewel of the desert, in the ’50s and ’60s, many artists and movie stars called Palm Springs home. (Photo courtesy Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism) |
PALM SPRINGS, Calif. -- The naturally beautiful Palm Springs is a jewel of the desert that over the past few years has become even more picturesque. It has long been known as an ideal vacation getaway because of its warm climate and constantly favourable weather forecast and also proudly boasts a famous past: During the '50s and '60s, many artists and movie stars called this sunny oasis home.
Old-time stars like Elvis Presley, Marilyn Monroe, Liberace, Frank Sinatra and Sonny Bono (who was once the city's mayor) all spent time in Palm Springs and their former homes still exist today. Some of them can even be rented out for those looking to be part of history while on vacation.
But what has really improved Palm Springs lately has been the redevelopment of its many circa-1950s hotels and motels.
"Palms Springs has the largest concentration of boutique hotels in the U.S.," says Jake Cohen, owner of the Rendezvous Bed and Breakfast.
The Rendezvous is 70 years old and, on different occasions, welcomed Marilyn Monroe as a guest. The charming spot has been renovated to reproduce the emblematic style of the 1950s in Palm Springs: Mid-century modern architecture.
The style favours all-glass surfaces and is decorated to blend with its Palm Springs surroundings, which feature a huge concentration of private homes and old, yet well-preserved buildings designed by the biggest names in architecture of past eras.
Covered by a perpetually blue sky and surrounded by elegant palm trees, the Rendezvous is typical of Palm Springs' offering of modernist hotels. The hotel has a limited number of rooms --all arranged around a pool and perfect for those in search of uninterrupted relaxation in the form of long days spent near water.
And when in Palm Springs, proximity to water is crucial as it gets very hot during the day, with summer temperatures regularly hitting 50C. Fortunately, it is a dry heat because, after all, it is the desert.
The mountains, covered in vegetation, that surround the city are a constant reminder of the desert's presence. At sunrise or sunset, the views are spectacular as the mountains take on a variety of beautiful colours.
Despite the lack of rain, Palm Springs' golf courses are always in great shape because of the presence of underground water in the Valley of Coachella, where the city is located.
And there are many to choose from, with the area featuring some 130 courses. However, that supply of water is being used to capacity and the municipality has restrictions in place to reduce water consumption (such as prohibiting the planting of grass on new properties).
Even more impressive than the Rendezvous, the Orbit Inn offers guests an unbeatable "retro chic" Palm Springs experience. The inn's rooms are particularly inviting because of the well-chosen colours and furnishings reminiscent of the 1950s.
With only nine rooms, the Orbit Inn also features a pool and plenty of individual attention from staff. During our visit, hotel guests were gathered at the bar enjoying a complimentary cocktail hour featuring martinis and plenty of conversation.
Other than golf, Palm Springs is also the perfect starting point from which you can go exploring in the surrounding desert. And Joshua Tree National Park -- named after a type of tree only found in desert areas of the southwest United States -- is located only 30 km from the city. Joshua Tree is also the title of one of the biggest albums put out by rock band U2.
Even closer to the city is the Tahquitz Canyon, which is on Cahuilla Indian land and makes an excellent starting point for an excursion into the desert.
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IF YOU GO
to Palm Springs, California
HOW TO GET THERE
There are no direct flights from Toronto to Palm Springs so connecting in another American city is required. You can fly directly to Los Angeles, however, and then drive to Palm Springs, which will take between two and four hours, depending on traffic conditions.
WHERE TO SLEEP
- The Rendezvous, palmspringsrendezvous.com.
- The Orbit Inn, orbitin.com.
- Alexander Inn, alexander-inn.com (friendly staff, charming decor).
MUST SEE
- A tour of the homes of the rich and famous, thebestofthebesttours.com.
- Tahquitz Canyon, tahquitzcanyon.com.
- Joshua Tree National Park, nps.gov/jotr.