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Destination: NORTH CAROLINA

Wild blue yonder

Culture, adventure and spectacular scenery in North Carolina's mountain region

By CHRIS DOUCETTE -- Toronto Sun
A visitor takes in the view of North Carolina's Blue Ridge Mountains. -- Photos by Chris Doucette.

A visitor takes in the view of North Carolina's Blue Ridge Mountains. -- Photos by Chris Doucette.

For those who've never been, North Carolina's mountain region may conjure up images of barefoot people in overalls chewing tobacco and spitting through a toothless grin while rocking on the porch of some dilapidated shack.

But you'd have a better chance of finding a needle in a haystack than a hillbilly in the Southern Appalachians.

What you will find in this historic region of the United States are North Carolinians escaping the insufferable summer heat of the South, tourists enjoying the natural beauty of the Blue Ridge mountains, and entrepreneurs using Southern hospitality and a little ingenuity to cater to both.

"You often hear this area referred to as the land that time forgot," said Dr. Charles Watkins, director of the Appalachian Cultural Museum in Boone, N.C., referring to the stereotype of mountain people as backward folks.

But while nothing could be further from the truth, this Southern gentleman said it's one misconception he'd rather not correct because it tends to draw tourists to the area.

And what a stunning area it is!

With its spectacular views, local artisans and craftspeople, and endless outdoor adventures to be had, there's something for everybody in North Carolina's mountain region.

A trip into what the locals call "the high country" is more of a journey than a vacation. And it's unlike anything you'll experience anywhere else in the world.

The best way to experience all that this journey has to offer is to take a leisurely drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway, one of the State's top tourist attractions.


Known as "America's favourite drive," it's a 750-km stretch of highway that winds its way along the backbone of the Blue Ridge Mountains from Virginia, across northwestern North Carolina, all the way to Tennessee.

Around every bend in the road you'll find another magnificent view, each more breathtaking than the last. It's an unsurpassed natural beauty that changes with the season, making it a destination you'll want to return to again and again.

After enjoying the cool mountain air in the summer months, where the temperature can be more than 10 degrees cooler than in the rest of the state, experience the magic of the leaves of more than 100 species of trees changing colour in the fall.

Then, experience the gorgeous sight of snow-covered mountains and some of the best skiing around, as the high country turns into a winter wonderland.

But perhaps the most glorious of all is the springtime, when everything old becomes new and the mountainsides are alive with lovely rhododendrons and a multitude of other brilliantly coloured wildflowers.


On your road trip, you'll find plenty of lookout points where you can pull over and take a gander. You'll quickly understand how the mountain range got its name as you gaze out at tree-lined mountains that take on a blue tinge as mist settles into the valleys and meadows below.

The Parkway is also a gateway that leads to an abundance of picnic areas, camp sites, hiking trails, waterfalls, attractions and quaint mountain communities.

A definite must-see is the privately owned Grandfather Mountain, southwest of Boone. Named by early pioneers who spotted an old man's profile in a rock face, its tallest summit, Calloway Peak, is the highest point in the Blue Ridge Mountains, with an elevation of more than 1,800 metres.

"I fell in love with this place long before I worked here," said Jesse Pope, a naturalist at Grandfather Mountain. "Even when it's busy and there are a lot of people on the mountain, you can still get that solitary feeling. It's just so massive."

The mountain's most popular feature, the Mile High Swinging Bridge, is definitely not for the faint of heart -- especially on a windy day. However, when the sky is clear you can see all the way to Charlotte, more than 150 km to the south.


Heading down the mountain you may recognize a stretch of road Tom Hanks' character ran along in the movie Forrest Gump. And as you wander around the numerous wildlife habitats and the nature museum, don't be surprised if you bump into Hugh Morton, who inherited the mountain from his grandpa in 1952 and turned it into a major tourist attraction.

If you're lucky, the environmentalist may share with you the story of Mildred the bear, a friendly black bear responsible for some pretty amazing things during her time as the park's mascot from 1968 until her death in 1993. But don't be surprised if the elderly Morton gets a little choked up as he recalls his old friend.

If you're interested in crafts, stop by the Moses Cone Estate Manor and Parkway Craft Centre. The magnificent home of Moses H. Cone -- who was known as "the Denim King" for creating blue jeans -- sits on a sprawling 1,400 hectares overlooking the charming town of Blowing Rock. The home was used in another Tom Hanks flick, The Green Mile.

At the end of a long day, park yourself for the night in Boone -- a small college town with all the necessities of a big city that's named after the legendary explorer who locals believe roamed the area's mountains in the 1760s. Be sure to take your appetite to the Dan'l Boone Inn restaurant for some finger-licking, down home cooking at an affordable price.

For $13.95 US (about $17 Cdn), you'll enjoy Southern-fried chicken, country-style steak, country ham biscuits, mashed potatoes with gravy, green beans, stewed apples, cut corn, coleslaw, buttermilk biscuits, black cherry preserves, homemade soup, and strawberry shortcake for desert.


The Biltmore Estate is a highlight of Asheville, N.C.

You can wash this scrumptious meal down with an ice-cold glass of sweet tea, which is brewed in pretty much every restaurant in the state.

Another treat you'll come across on just about every corner during your travels is North Carolinian "barbecue." It's about the best pork you'll ever sample and it's sold sliced, chopped or minced. Try it on a bun with a heap of cole slaw, another area favourite.

If you're feeling guilty about over indulging, there's plenty of ways to work off those extra calories in the great outdoors.

Start with a visit to Dutch Creek Trails in Valle Crucis for some horseback riding through the most beautiful country you'll ever see. Owner Keith Ward was a cop in Boone for 24 years and recently traded in his cruiser for a saddle. He likes to get people out on the trail and then share his cowboy poetry, which is sure to make you chuckle.


The view from the Moses Cone Estate overlooks the charming mountain town of Blowing Rock.

You can continue your outdoor experience with some whitewater rafting and mountain biking at Wahoo's Adventures in the tiny village of Todd.

Just don't get too disappointed if the weather doesn't cooperate with your plans. It can be unpredictable in the high country to say the least.

As Jeff Stanley of Wahoo's put it, "If you don't like the weather in the mountains, wait five minutes. It will change."

After all that hard work, consider pampering yourself in Asheville, N.C., by checking into the luxurious inn on the Biltmore Estate. Rooms start at about $200 US (approximately $243 Cdn) per night, but the estate's 1,500 employees will treat you like royalty, making it worth every penny.

After a night on the most comfortable bed you've ever slept on, start your tour of the 50,590 hectare property with a stop at the Biltmore House -- America's largest private residence.

George Vanderbilt, of the well-to-do Vanderbilt family, had the house built in the 1890s and it has 250 rooms, including 35 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, an indoor swimming pool and a two-lane bowling alley. And each room is filled with the most exquisite antique furniture.

You can try your luck at fly fishing or hop in a kayak and paddle down the lazy French Broad River. Then, end your day with a tour of the estate's winery and have your own private wine-tasting experience.

As your journey winds down, you'll likely find you've only scratched the surface of what North Carolina's mountain region has to offer.

And you'll no doubt want to take the locals up on the offer you'll hear so often it will be ringing in your head long after you're home.

"Y'all come back real soon now, ya hear!

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BOTTOM LINE

MORE INFORMATION: Contact North Carolina Tourism at 1-800-visitnc. and visitnc.com.

This story was posted on Sun, July 24, 2005



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