February 23, 2006
A truly Southern belle
Refined Charleston, S.C., has many charms
By ANITA DRAYCOTT -- Special to Sun Media
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A swinger lauches his ball from the first tee at Kiawah Ocean Course. -- Photos by Anita Draycott |
Genuine southern hospitality, gracious antebellum mansions, pecan pralines and world-class golf resorts are just a few of the reasons that the readers of Conde Nast Traveler magazine have named Charleston, S.C., as the third top destination in North America. So fix yourself a mint julep and find out how to make the most of this "southern belle."
All prices in U.S. dollars.
THE "YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE" SPLURGE LIST
CURB APPEAL
The gorgeous white Queen Anne Victorian mansion sits under sprawling live oaks dripping with Spanish moss. With its wrap-around porch, Tiffany stained glass window panels and rich oak paneling, the Two Meeting Street Inn has such curb appeal that Barbara Streisand knocked on the door and asked proprietor Jean Spell if she could have a visit. A breakfast of Bananas Foster and Sausage Wellington might be taken on the veranda or in the garden. And, after a day of sightseeing, guests can indulge in afternoon tea and home baked sweets. Nine antique-filled rooms start at $200. See twomeetingstreet.com.
CLIP CLOP
Take a horse-drawn carriage tour, about $15, along the cobblestone streets in the historic centre. Many of Charleston's mansions were built by early British colonists in the Caribbean style with high ceilings and broad piazzas on each level to catch the sea breezes. You'll notice that many are long and narrow, built at right angles to the street, because buildings were taxed on frontage.
SOMETHING FISHY?
You'll find Low Country cookin' and the finest seafood at The Boathouse. I recommend the Alaska King crab legs and shrimp and grits laced with Tabasco. For a real southern treat, try the fried green tomatoes with black-eyed pea salsa. There's an award-winning wine list to wash it all down. See boathouse restaurants.com.
THE "CHEAP THRILLS" SCRIMP LIST
GOLF BONANZA
Southern Golf Tours stay-and-play packages allow you to play great golf in the Low Country while making the centre of vibrant Charleston your home base for sightseeing and accessibility to fabulous restaurants and nightspots. You can choose from various hotels but I prefer the historic Mills House Hotel where Civil War General Robert E. Lee was a guest.
Play at more than 10 courses including: Charleston National with its challenging carries on the back nine over marsh and lagoons; Dunes West, an Arthur Hills design; Legend Oaks that has been compared to Pinehurst; the three nines created by Dr. Michael Hurdzan at Wescott Plantation. Four nights' lodging, four green fees and cart start at $513. For more, see southerngolftours.com.
BOO!
At night when the gaslights flicker and a fog blows in from the harbour, take a walking tour called The Ghosts of Charleston. With so much history, the place is crawling with ghouls, from the old bridges to the graveyards. About $15 for adults; $10 for kids. See tourcharleston.com.
WHERE THE CIVIL WAR BEGAN
On April 12, 1861, Confederate forces fired the first shot of the Civil War on Union troops on Fort Sumter, a man made island in the middle of Charleston Harbour. History buffs will want to take a boat ride and a tour: $13 for adults; $7 for children. See fortsumtertours.com.
MARKET DAYS
Open every day until about sunset in the heart of the historic district, vendors at the covered stalls sell everything from old silver to hand-woven sweet grass baskets. If you've got a sweet tooth, try the chocolate/pecan/caramel pralines.
WILD WING CAFE
Claiming to serve the best wings south of Buffalo, this eatery in the market area is the spot for a bucket of beer and your choice of 32 flavours of wings from honey ginger to ranch. Warning: You'll need lip balm and a fire extinguisher when you bite into the five-alarm Chernobyl wings.See wildwingcafe.com.
For more on Charleston, see charlestoncvb.com.