The River Walk in San Antonio, Texas, is a picturesque place to take a walk or a boat tour. -- Photo courtesy of San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau

San Antonio has the two biggest tourist attractions in Texas. Number one is the Alamo, but if I had time for only one, it would be the runnerup, the River Walk.

Bordering the San Antonio River but six metres below street level, its cobblestoned paths wind for nearly 5 km, past stone bridges and under Bald Cypress trees up to 250 years old.

At night it glitters, and the cafes, bars and restaurants are packed with people bent on pleasure. It's especially magical at this time of year when the foliage is festooned with Christmas lights.

In the morning, set aside 30 minutes for a sightseeing boat tour. They run 9 a.m.-9 p.m., year round.

Fast-growing San Antonio, population 1.3 million, is the eighth largest city in the U.S., but its downtown is notable for an absence of skyscrapers and an abundance of interesting old buildings.

Building height is limited to ensure nothing casts a shadow on the Alamo and that River Walk vegetation receives adequate sunlight.

State tourism images to the contrary, San Antonio is not cowboy country. "It's a very cosmopolitan city," says Frances Ortiz Schultschik of the Convention and Visitors Bureau. It's 60% Hispanic, but the next biggest ethnic group is German or, as Ortiz Schultschik's name suggests, a mix of the two.

Most of the major attractions can be seen by foot or public transit. The Alamo and River Walk area are only a few blocks apart. Broadway, the cultural thoroughfare, is served by Line #7, which can be taken from downtown or the airport.

Near Broadway is the Marion Koogler McNay Art Museum, whose park-like grounds and Spanish Colonial Revival-style building are alone worth the visit. Admission is free.

A bargain, at 50c a ride, are the VIA Trolleys, designed to resemble old-fashioned streetcars. Four lines crisscross downtown, stopping at or near most hotels, restaurants, tourist attractions, shops and galleries.

You could take one to the King William Historic District, a 25-block area which, in the late 1800s, was the city's most elegant residential area. Or you could walk there along the river from downtown in 20 minutes.

Just up the river is the Guenther House, once home of the founder of Pioneer Flour Mills. Its gift shop sells small bags of special flour mixes such as Southern Sweet Cream Waffle and Jalapeno Corn Bread.

Getting there

Continental flies non-stop between Toronto and Houston and has frequent connections to San Antonio.

When to go

Fall to spring are best. Fiesta, held around the third week of April, is the biggest annual festival; book accommodation months ahead.

Dining tip

Mi Tierra Cafe and Bakery, in Market Square (El Mercado). It's open 24 hours (strolling mariachi musicians play in the evening) and decorated year-round with Christmas lights. If you're new to Tex-Mex, order a botanas platter, a mix of appetizers.

More information

Phone, toll-free, 1-800-447-3372 or visit sanantoniovisit.com, where visitors can also download maps tailored to their hotel's location.